Oliver + S

Twin Needle hemming – bobbin thread breaks

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    Profile photo of Lightning McStitchLightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    I’ve been happily hemming my knit garments using a double needle and it looks great…

    …until a little while later, when inevitably the bobbin thread breaks somewhere and the top threads start unravelling.

    I’ve noticed this happens a lot on ready to wear T-Shirts too, but it bugs me when it happens to MY sewing!

    Anyone else have the same problem? Any tips?

    Curiously, it seems to happen a lot more to my son’s clothes rather than my daughter’s. Perhaps it comes down to how one gets in and out of their clothes and some breakage is unavoidable!

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    Profile photo of EllenMCMEllenMCM @EllenMCM

    I have had this problem too. I do some test stitching on a scrap first, and then stretch it a bunch of time to see if I can break it, and adjust thread tension accordingly. Twin-needling a stretch stitch also seems to be sturdier.

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    Profile photo of Liesl GibsonLiesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Here are a few ideas for you:

    1. try using polyester/all-purpose thread, with is stronger than cotton and has a little bit of stretch.

    2. good quality thread can be important, since cheap thread is made, err, cheaply.

    3. check to be sure your tension is even, since you may need to adjust for a double needle or for knit fabric.

    4. another thought: have you heard of wooly nylon? A lot of avid knit sewists swear by it. You can use it in a serger, but you can also use it as your bobbin thread when hemming knits. You can find wooly nylon at a lot of fabric stores these days, and it’s worth investing in a spool for your knit projects.

    I hope that helps!

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    Profile photo of paulapaula @paula

    I use Maxi Lock Stretch thread (usually used in a serger) in my bobbin when sewing with knits. It is a trick I learned from a class on Craftsy I took by Meg McElwee called Sewing with Knits.

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    Profile photo of NicoleNicole @motherof5

    I have had this happen on some slub knit tee’s I made and hemmed with my cover stitch machine. I ended up stitching around the hem twice, one on top of the other. This made it a lot sturdier.

    Just a thought for the little mans tee’s.

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    Profile photo of Lightning McStitchLightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Thanks everyone. I think I probably do need to play with the tension a bit as sometimes the bobbin thread looks a bit straight and isn’t zigzagging between the top threads enough. after all that’s what gives the stitch its stretch, right?

    Some tougher bobbin thread appeals too. It seems Maxi Lock thread is a brand of woolly nylon, as Liesl suggested I try. thanks for the tips

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    Profile photo of It's me SophieIt's me Sophie @Itsmesophie

    Can I ask: I have been reading up on knits and about to start my first top. I too heard the wooly nylon in the bobbin tip, but I bought a new sewing machine last week (Janome 2160DC) and when I mentioned it to the lady there she said it would ruin my machine. If its just in the bobbin surely it would be fine?

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    Profile photo of It's me SophieIt's me Sophie @Itsmesophie

    Also I know there are a few Aussies here – I found it hard to find wooly nylon. I finally had luck at Tessuti’s online and another site Craft Gate. Hope it’s ok to mention.

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    Profile photo of Lightning McStitchLightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Thanks Sophie. I’ve seen it at Spotlight too.

    No idea why it couldn’t be used in any machine, but then I’m still baffled after a Janome dealer told me I couldn’t use metal bobbins in my machine….. I do, and I can…..

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    Profile photo of paulapaula @paula

    Look for the Maxi lock STRETCH! It gives a little so the thread isn’t as likely to break 🙂

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    Profile photo of It's me SophieIt's me Sophie @Itsmesophie

    Paula is maxi lock stretch different to wooly nylon?

    Thanks Lightning McStitch it never occurred to me to check Spotlight. Do you know if they have the maxi lock?

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    Profile photo of Lightning McStitchLightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    No idea. I just remember looking at the threads when I was looking for the invisible stuff Mother of 5 recommended for using in the overlocker and spying a product called Woolly Nylon and having no idea what it was for.

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    Profile photo of Lightning McStitchLightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Bumping up this thread…
    What’s been mostly working well fir me over the last year of sewing lots of knit clothes is this:
    1. Woolly Nylon in the bobbin
    2. Having a second bobbin casing with tension backed way off so the bobbin thread really does zig zag fully
    3. Using the walking foot to get over side seam bumps

    None of that means I don’t want a coverstitch machine, I do. But the twin needle gems are holding up much better these days!

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    Profile photo of roundtheworldgirlroundtheworldgirl @roundtheworldgirl

    Thanks LMcS! I do have the Woolly Nylon but have not been able to get it to work for me – maybe I should invest in another bobbin case. Cheaper than the coverstitch, anyway …

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