Oliver + S

Sunday Brunch Sleeves

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    Profile photo of dubhels2003dubhels2003 @dubhels2003

    Hello,

    I’m hoping someone can help. I’m embarking on my first Sunday Brunch jacket, and am at the stage of gathering sleeves in order to ease them in. The instructions suggest the sleeve notches between which the gathering is done are fairly low down the shoulder, this is shown on the picture at number 1 of ‘Attach the sleeves’. However the notches on the pattern are quite high up the shoulder, meaning there is less gathering in order to ease.

    I have checked and there are (is?) no errata relating to this, so I am assuming that the pattern piece is correct, that there is a smaller amount of gathering required than the picture in the instructions suggests. As I am trying to improve the quality of what I produce I thought I’d ask for the benefit of others’ wisdom rather than just ploughing on and hoping!

    Thank you.

    Helena

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    Profile photo of NicoleNicole @motherof5

    Its so long since I have made one of these but I would definitely go by the pattern piece and suggest the diagram is just a guide.

    I am sorry not to be more help.

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    Profile photo of needlewomanneedlewoman @needlewoman

    Dear Helena, I have just finished my first Sunday Brunch – ta dah. Yes, I too went back to the pattern to check the sleeve notches because there seemed so little distance between them compared to the picture in the instructions. However, I’m pleased to tell you that there is absolutely no problem!! The tiny bit of gathering required just helps you ease the shoulder, and gives a lovely smooth finish to the sleeves – like a real grown up coat. I pinned the two side notches first, then went back to the armholes and pinned between there and the notches, then I gathered between the notches, and pinned that, and it worked like a charm. So bat on, and you’ll be fine. If I hadn’t tried to be too clever about tiding up the armhole seams with extended facings, the wretched thing would be finished, and you could all admire it on Flickr. Mine is a size 8 in denim; what’s yours made of, and for whom?

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    Profile photo of vothgirlvothgirl @vothgirl

    Good to know, as this pattern is on my fall sewing list! I have some beautiful saffron-colored AMH velveteen I plan to make into a size 2 or 3T for my toddler. I’ll be posting pics and asking opinions on buttons since my Joann’s had nothing inspiring.

    Speaking of buttons, where do you other O+S-philes get yours? I’ve got a good list of online fabric sources but have yet to take the plunge and order notions online bc I really am not sure where to start looking.

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    Profile photo of dubhels2003dubhels2003 @dubhels2003

    Thank you all. I eased between the notches and it worked just fine. I’m not obsessively testing and practicing my bound seams on nearly every possible seam in the jacket, much unpicking and a little blue language has happened!

    Im sewing a size 3 in liberty chambray with tana lawn binding left over from a seashore sundress I made the other week. Hopefully I’ll finish tomorrow or Thursday. It’s for my daughter, though it probably wont fit until spring time, which is fine by me!

    I can’t help on button advice vothgirl, we have a little shop called ‘Duttons for Buttons’ which I use, or I buy vintage from charity shops, car boot sales and sometimes ebay as well. Oh, and I stock up at craft fairs!

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    Profile photo of RobinRobin @Robin

    Have you tried knitting stores for buttons? We’re spoiled in Vancouver with Button Button.

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    Profile photo of mkhsmkhs @mkhs

    I buy second hand. Old shell buttons can look kind of awful sometimes, but usually wash up well. I also save buttons from our worn-out clothes, and have been known to go back and “harvest” favorite buttons from my daughter’s homemade, outgrown things. I do have some special ones I bought at Tender Buttons in NYC years ago.

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    Profile photo of SarviSarvi @Sarvi

    vothgirl, having made this in AMH velveteen I strongly urge you not to trim the seam allowances. That stuff frays like the dickens. It’s terrifying. I made covered buttons from the same fabric and stitched them over snaps as I dreaded the thought of trying to put buttonholes in that fabric but you may well be made of sterner stuff than I am.

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    Profile photo of vothgirlvothgirl @vothgirl

    Sarvi, thanks so much for the tips! I will look for magnetic snaps like for purses and get some cool buttons for the outside. If it frays that badly, it makes me lean even more towards binding the seams like I’ve seen in pictures.

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    Profile photo of needlewomanneedlewoman @needlewoman

    So glad you getting on well with the coat, dubhels – Chambray with lawn binding sounds bliss. I think it will make a charming spring jacket; that’s how mine will be worn, I suspect. It wouldn’t really be warm enough if the weather is really cold as it can be Melbourne, Victoria; however, over a blouse or t shirt it should be ok – provided Miss 7 is prepared to wear it. We’ll see.

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