[janainmichigan]

I am starting my first Oliver & S pattern – the sailboat skirt and top – for my daughter. She is going to be 3 in a couple weeks and her height (37.5″) puts her in a size 3T, but her other measurements fall in the 6-24 month sizes (chest 20, waist 20, hip 21). Any suggestions for me about what size to make her? And actually, her grandma is making this, not me…!

[sewinginthecity]

My daughter is like this too. She’s 20 months and average for height, but width-wise measures in the 6-12 month range. I cut the 12-18 months size (so she has some growing room), but extend the cutting lines for length (front and back bottom edge, etc.) to the 18 to 24 month lines, or size 2 lines if they are there. Does that make sense? It’s much easier to add length this way then to reduce the width of a larger pattern.

[Liesl Gibson]

In general, you should select a pattern based on chest measurement and lengthen or shorten accordingly. I wrote a tutorial about lengthening and shortening a pattern, which you can find here:

http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/02/lengthening-and-shortening-a-pattern.html

Hope that helps!

[sewinginthecity]

Of course, Liesl has the better answer! My method only works if the pattern piece has straight side seams and is pretty basic, like shirts or straight-leg pants. If the piece is flared (like the tea party skirt) or goes all the way down the body, like a jumpsuit, you have to spread the lengthening through out the piece.