Oliver + S

Need more booty room in the after school pants!

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    Profile photo of SarahGreenSarahGreen @moonglowmama

    I’ve been searching the web, but I’m still somewhat at a loss as to what the best approach will be.

    My daughter is 10, but tall and with a booty. How do I give her seat more room for the next pair I make?

    The last pair I made a size 12, hoping that would cover it, pardon the pun, but when she was playing with the dog on the floor she looked like a plumber. Not the result I want when I’m taking the time and effort to sew her clothing. 🙂

    Upon closer inspection, it seems like the front is a bit baggy in the crotch area, even though it is sitting at the right spot (i.e. Not low rider in front). The back is tight in the bum and is too low.

    Is it best to lengthen the back inseam?
    Or make an adjustment in the yoke piece?
    If I alter the inseam, do I need to alter anywhere else?

    I found this one blog reference that helps me to understand better what’s going on, but I am not sure how to apply a change to a pattern with a yoke.

    Discussing, at length, Crotch Length

    Thanks!

    LINK
    Profile photo of SarahGreenSarahGreen @moonglowmama

    This is a pic in case it helps.

    Attachments:
    LINK
    Profile photo of NicoleNicole @motherof5

    I can’t get to a computer just now but I nutting over s few ideas
    I will be back ASAP

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    Profile photo of Lightning McStitchLightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    I read this post just today and I think it might help. It is mostly referring to increasing room in the front crotch but as they say at the end, if you do the same split and spread to the back that works for the back.
    I imagine if you create a bit more room at the back there’ll be less strain and pulling down with squatting and bending.
    But gee you’ve got a cute fit when standing straight and I love your fabric!
    Anyway here’s the link that shows the slashing and spreading. https://threadtheoryblog.wordpress.com/2015/03/20/tutorial-easy-ways-to-create-a-roomier-trouser-crotch/

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    Profile photo of SarahGreenSarahGreen @moonglowmama

    Thanks, Lightning! That is a helpful and well-diagrammed tutorial.

    So, the after school pants have separate pattern pieces for the back, front and side panels. I am thinking it might simply be a matter of increasing the back inseam. I’m not sure how to tell if I should increase from the top, middle or crotch. Or maybe it won’t make that much difference?

    My inclination is to increase at the top, as it doesn’t come up high enough for the yoke piece to sit right, but, i suppose by adding length in the inseam anywhere it will come up higher?

    Sometimes don’t you wish there was a cozy sewing room where we could all just work through such dilemmas together? I do!

    And thanks, i am overall pleased with how the pants look. The fabric is a stretch twill and she picked out the pocket stitching. Just hoping to get a nicer fit this go round.

    LINK
    Profile photo of SarahGreenSarahGreen @moonglowmama

    Upon closer inspection (and another cup of coffee!) I’m going to do the hinge thing at between the two notches, which I think will give more room in the seat, while keeping everything else working.

    I’ll post them on Flickr when I get them done.
    Thanks for all your help!

    LINK
    Profile photo of with love Heidiwith love Heidi @with love Heidi

    Just realised I had this image in my flicker stream that may help. https://www.flickr.com/photos/73669617@N07/12077112723/

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