[Little Teds]

Has anyone done this? I have a beautiful Japanese print in a cotton linen mix which I’m worried might be a bit rough on my toddlers skin. I’m planning on lining the bodice with some cotton voile replacing the facings with full size bodice pieces but I’m trying to work out how this will affect setting in the sleeves. I’m pretty new to this (as you can probably tell!). Any advice gratefully received!

[Nicole]

Sounds lovely!

I would make a separate dress in the lining, put the two together but still use the facings.

I have an option for the sleeves here.

This is only one way of course.

Good luck.

[Little Teds]

Thanks for replying! Such a gorgeous dress – funnily enough the fabric I have is very similar. I’m not really too worried about lining the skirt as I’m making the tunic length so she’ll always have something underneath but also lining the sleeves would be a real bonus. I’m struggling with visualising this though. How would I attach the two together since there won’t be any raw edges? Would hand sewing round the neckline and back plackets work? Sorry if this is a very dense question!

[Nicole]

No such thing as a dense question!

I am just trying to think of the best way to explain it.

I will have a look at a few of my tutes and see if I can find some pictures.

I think I know what you want to do.

I am thinking you would sew two bodices one lining, one main, put them wrong sides together, finish the sleeves like I did above and then attach the facings and skirt treating the bodice+bodice lining as one.

I will get back to you.

[Nicole]

Is this any help?

http://fiveandcounting-motherof5.blogspot.com.au/2013/03/elsas-turn-again-lining-unlined-blazer.html

You would do this with just the bodice and then attach the skirt?

Please let us know if it doesn’t suit.

I really wish I had the time to go and sew it, particularly as I want to do similar with some gorgeous Japanese linen print, I have, which is also a wee bit scratchy.

[Little Teds]

Thank you Nicole. I do appreciate you taking the time to reply. I think where I’m getting stuck is the order I’m going to do things in. I’m wondering if I can sew the shoulder seams and then set in the sleeves for both the main fabric and lining before I attach them together round the neckline and back placket. Otherwise I don’t see how I can keep all the seams hidden. Arghh – I think I’ll play around with a muslin tonight. Thanks again!

[meleliza]

I have lined the bodice, but not the sleeves. It’s a slightly awkward and not entirely “correct” method, though. For most linings, you can cut a second bodice piece from your lining fabric, attach the facings on top and then treat them as one unit, following instructions for the facings. But some of the he Oliver and S patterns have unique assembly methods and require some fudging to line. I set the sleeves sandwiched between the lining and body fabrics. Then, I sewed up the side seam of the sleeve and dress keeping the lining carefully out of the way. I used French seams for the sleeves. I then stitched the lining side seams together with the machine as close as I could, keeping all the rest out of the way. I pressed the boding lining seam allowance under and top stitched it into place covering the raw edges. At the back placket I had to snip and pin carefully and just sort of make it work, but it can. This is not how I would assemble a formal dress, but it’s fine for play clothes.

[Nicole]

Little Ted, I hope Melanie’s advice makes more sense to you, she is very clever (click on her name to see her blog)

If it doesn’t, please come back. We really like to help here!

[Little Teds]

So I had a play tonight and tried as you suggested Nicole. Once I got my head around changing the order of assembly it was actually pretty straight forward. I didn’t bother with the facings for the muslin but I’ll probably do them for the real thing since the voile is so thin. My only worry is getting the finish neat with 2 such different weights of fabric. The voile is super flimsy. Thanks so much both of you.

Katie x

[Nicole]

That is awesome Katie, I am so pleased.

When I am sewing a super sheer fabric I will use very thin pieces of interfacing and press them to the seam allowance. Especially the shoulder seams.

You may find the voile grips the linen too.

I am sure you can do this.

[needlewoman]

Kate, you could line the skirt of the Playtime the same way as the skirt in the Bubble Dress. This method eliminates measuring two hems, and enables you to attach the lining to the skirt so that the two can be gathered together. I’ve just cut out a Playtime tunic with a full front and back bodice lining because I’m using a Kokka linen. I’m not doing the skirt as Miss 5 will be wearing leggings with it in our autumn. Really look forward to seeing your work on Flickr. When in doubt, refer to Nicole or Mel’s sewing techniques; they are both very clever sewists.

[Little Teds]

Thanks both, these are really helpful ideas. I’m actually in the middle of making a bubble dress at the moment and just about to join the lining to the skirt so all should become clear shortly!

[Nicole]

Not to be presumptuous but I did a tute for that!

The back placket can be a little tricky. http://www.pinterest.com/pin/73676143876443910/

If you are fine, please disregard and have fun sewing!