Oversized is a very popular look right now, but if it’s not done correctly it can be overwhelming and shapeless. So how can you make it work for you?
An oversized look requires a bit of planning and some styling, so I’m here to demonstrate a few ideas for you. Here I am, wearing a pair of Cannes Trousers and a Classic Shirt. This is not how I would wear them in real life–to me, it needs refining–so we’ll use this as our starting point, ok?
Here are my favorite tips for wearing oversized clothing:
1. First, consider balance and scale. If one piece is oversized, consider wearing something else more fitted with it. For example. I love wide-legged trousers, but I often balance them with a more fitted top. For example, I swapped out the Classic Shirt for this Lisette for Butterick B6901 vest. The closer fit of the top allows the trousers to be the dramatic part of the look, but they don’t overwhelm my body.
2. Add accessories: a belt, some jewelry, an interesting shoe, etc. These details can finish an outfit and keep it from looking too casual or sloppy. They make your look more intentional and polished. Note the addition of the belt, bracelets, and shoes in the photos above. All these items play an important role in elevating the look.
3. Define the waist. If you’re wearing an oversized top, find a way to indicate the waist. You don’t have to tuck in the top completely, but tuck in a part of the top, or leave a few buttons open near the hem so your waist is partly visible. This gives the waist some definition and creates a curvier silhouette, rather than oversized all over. Here is a shorter, cropped version of the Classic Shirt with our free popover placket option. By tucking in just the front I’m giving it a little shape while still reading “oversized.”
4. Show a little skin someplace. Roll up and push up your sleeves, unbutton the neckline a bit, and wear a shoe that allows a little skin so you’re not covered from head to toe. The key is to give some relief to all that fabric! (Also, do you see how, by leaving the bottom buttons of the shirt open and cinching the waist a bit at the back, I’ve also given the Classic Shirt a little more shape while still leaving it un-tucked? The visible part of the belt helps to define the waist, too.)
5. If your look is casual, add something a little dressy to it. Either the shoe or the jewelry can play this role. I love to mix tailored and casual or sporty to achieve this look. To me, wearing everything dressy feels like trying too hard, so I prefer to mix it up and be comfortable and a little dressy.
If you try these tips you’re oversized look should feel a bit more flattering and less sloppy. Let me know how it goes, ok?
So that begs the next question: how do you sew oversized? The Cannes Trousers already have a bit of an oversized look because they’re cut with a very full leg. For blouses, shirts, and tops if the style isn’t already oversized my preferred way is to simply sew a size or two larger than I usually wear. This works great for classic styles like our Classic Shirt, Santa Rosa Top, etc. It can also work for jackets and coats: for example, I’m also going to cut my next Prado Trench Coat one size larger for a little more dramatic fit.
For some of our styles that are already a little oversized you really don’t need to size up unless you want to. The Gallery Tunic is already somewhat generous through the body, but if you want you can always size up as well. Same for the Positano Blouse: with all that gathering, you may not need to size up at all! But if you do you’ll get an even more dramatic look.
And I’ve already shown you how to alter the side seams of your trousers, but the opposite is also true: if you want to add width to your trouser legs you’ll simply add to the pattern or cut the side seams wider than normal, then pin and baste on your body before you stitch the side seams. Styles like the Cannes Trousers have lots of fullness built into the pattern, so you don’t need to add fullness if you want to sew that style.
And with that, happy sewing! I can’t wait to see what you make AND how you wear it!
I’m going in the opposite direction – I’m losing weight, so sewing anything is difficult; I’m planning on making things that look good while relatively fitted, but still look good when oversized after weight loss. I’m also considering construction techniques and designs that can be easily altered later on – for example, attaching waistbands (which aren’t really under stress) with a longer stitch so it’s easier to alter.
I’ve done this before, but it was 20 years ago, so some of my previous design strategies might not work.
I did discover one thing that’s timeless – knitwear can just look sloppy if you go down one size, but two sizes looks intentionally oversized, so don’t be hasty throwing things out!
Such fabulous and useful information. Thank you.
I’m glad it’s helpful!
Thank you so much for this post and also for some styling and sewing ideas. I am just getting ready to make a summer capsulette and am looking forward to including some of these patterns.
I also want to mention that, as a curvier woman, I never think I can carry off your classic style, no matter how much I love it. However, I recently watched the series “The Residence” on Netflix, which I strongly recommend, and the whole time I was loving the main character’s wardrobe, which is very classic. She’s also a curvier woman and looks amazing in a tailed look. She wears a signature coat that could be replicated with a shortened Chaval coat with some leather shoulders added, and maybe the Cannes trousers as the bottom.