Oliver + S

Sew Alongs

Parachute Sweatpants Sew Along

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  • LINK
    Profile photo of Rachel Le GrandRachel Le Grand @nestfullofeggs

    Are you ready to sew the Parachute Sweatpants? We’re so glad you’re here.

     

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    This morning on the blog Liesl shared her tutorial on adding pockets to the Parachute Sweatpants, so be sure to check that out if you are interested in adding pockets to your pair of sweatpants.

    Here is the daily plan for this weeks Parachute Sweatpants sew-along:

    • Day 1 (today): get ready and assemble the legs
    • Day 2: assemble the pants
    • Day 3: prepare and attach the waistband
    • Day 4: hem the sweatpants
    • Day 5: finish the sweatpants

    Here we go!

    Day 1

    Get Ready

    1. Cut a piece of lightweight fusible interfacing 1 1/4” wide by 2 1/2” long and set it aside for the waistband.

    Assemble the Legs

    1. Pin one pants-front piece to its corresponding side panel, matching the notches, and stitch with a 1/4” seam.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Press the seam allowances toward the side panel and finish them together. If desired, topstitch the side panel 1/8” from the seam. (Liesl will show you her little faux-coverstitch trick in a few steps, so stay tuned for that if you’d like to try it.)

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    2. Pin one pants-back panel to its corresponding side and pants-front panel, aligning the notches, and stitch with a 1/4” seam.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Press the seam allowances toward the side panel. Finish the seam allowances together. If desired, edge stitch the center panel 1/8” from seam, catching the seam allowances in the process.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    From Liesl: I have a fun little stitch on my machine that I use to fake a flatlock stitch on the sweatpants stripe. I used stitch #28 on the diagram below on my Janome 6600, but I think you could use other stitches as well.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-alongSee stitch #28 above for the stitch diagram.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-alongHere are the settings I use for the stitch.

     

    To fake a flatlock stitch, I switch to the walking foot and carefully stitch over the edges of the stripe so my needle stitches in the ditch of the seamline on one side of the stitch. I would imagine that if you use Wooly Nylon or a similar fluffy serger thread you’d get an even better result. I think you could also get this effect with a regular zigzag stitch if you don’t have any fancy stitches on your machine, and the Wooly Nylon will fill in the spaces to make the stitching look even better.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

    Play with a few scraps of fabric to see what works with your machine, and don’t be afraid to use a regular straight stitch if that’s what works best for you.

    Note: Because of the bulk of the fabrics, you might want to use a walking foot for this step. Technically, you don’t need to use a stretch stitch for the edge stitching because knit fabric doesn’t have much stretch in the length, and if the fabric puckers or waves once the seam is sewn, a good steaming with the iron should shrink everything back into place.

    3. Pin the edges of the leg together and stitch the inseam with a 1/4” seam. Finish the seam allowances using your preferred method and press the seam allowances toward the back.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the second leg.

    Day 2

    How is the sewing going so far? It’s going to be short and sweet, as we have only one step today. For those of you who are adding pockets it gives you a chance to catch up.

    Assemble the Pants

    1. Turn one pants leg right-side out and the other leg wrong-side out. Slip the right-side-out leg into the wrong-side-out leg and pin the layers together at the rise (the crotch), with right sides together and with the edges, notches, and seams aligned. Stitch the rise with a 1/4” seam and finish the seam allowances together using your preferred method. Turn the sweatpants right side out so they’re ready for the waistband.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    If you ever have any questions along the way about any of the steps, please let us know, will you? Come back tomorrow when we’ll be preparing and attaching the waistband. See you then!

    Day 3

    Welcome back. We have a lot of sewing to get done today, so let’s get started!

    Prepare and Attach the Waistband

    1. To reinforce the waistband, fuse the small piece of interfacing you prepared in Step 1 of the “Get Ready” section to the wrong side of the cut waistband behind the marked buttonholes that you transferred from the pattern.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    2. Stitch each buttonhole where marked on the waistband. Cut the buttonholes open, being careful not to cut into the stitches themselves.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Hint: Use a seam ripper to carefully cut open the buttonholes, cutting from each end of the buttonhole toward the center. Visit the free videos section on the website for a demonstration.

    3. With the right sides together and the edges aligned, pin the waistband’s short ends together and stitch them with a 1/4” seam. Press the seam allowances open or to one side.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    4. Fold and press the waistband in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    5. Unfold the waistband and then slip it over the pants with right sides facing. Pin the notched edge of the waistband to the top raw edge of the pants, matching the notches on the waistband to the center-front and side panel seams and matching the waistband’s seam with the center-back seam of the pants. (Note that you’ll want the buttonholes positioned at the top of the waistband as shown in the photo.)

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Baste the waistband to the pants with a 1/4” seam. Stretch the waistband a bit as you pin and stitch it so it will fit the width of the pants.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    6. Fold the waistband in half again and pin it in place. This will create a casing for the elastic. Stitch both edges of the waistband to the top of the sweatpants with a 1/4” seam leaving about 2” unsewn near one side or near the back to make an opening through which to feed the waistband elastic.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    7. Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end of the elastic and feed the elastic through the opening left in the waistband casing. Adjust the elastic to fit the wearer’s waist and trim the elastic to the desired length. Next overlap the two ends of the elastic by about 3/4” and pin them together.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Then sew the pinned ends together by stitching a small rectangle on the overlapped edges, removing the pin as you sew and lockstitching at the beginning and end of the rectangle.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Note: Elastic can vary a great deal in the amount of stretch it has, depending on its quality. If you’re unsure of the length to cut the elastic, start by cutting it 1” smaller than the child’s waist measurement, then shorten the elastic as necessary.

    8. Stitch the opening closed with a 1/4” seam. If you aren’t using a serger, finish the waistline seam allowances using your preferred method. Press the seam allowances away from the waistband and, working from the fabric’s right side, edge stitch the waistband with a stretch stitch to finish it.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    That’s it for today. We’ll see you back here tomorrow when we will be hemming the sweatpants.

    Day 4

    Good morning sewalongers! And welcome to day four of the sew-along where we will be hemming the sweatpants. Off we go!

    Hem the Sweatpants

    1. Finish the bottom edge of the sweatpants using your preferred method. Fold and press the finished edge to the wrong side by 3/4” and use a stretch stitch to stitch 1/2” from the fold, leaving and opening of about 2” to make an opening through which to feed the elastic.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    2. Cut a piece of elastic according to the chart. Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end of the elastic and feed the elastic through the hem casing. Overlap the two ends of the elastic by about 3/4” and pin them together. Then sew the pinned ends together by stitching a small rectangle on the overlapped edges, removing the pin as you sew and lockstitching at the beginning and end of the rectangle.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Note: Use the chart in the instructions as a guide for the hem elastic.

    3. Finish edge stitching the hem casing’s opening to close it, backstitching or lockstitching at both ends of your stitching.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    4. Repeat steps 1-3 to finish the hem of the second sweatpants leg.

    We’re almost done! Join us tomorrow when we’ll be finishing up the sweatpants.

    Day 5

    Welcome to the fifth and final day of the sweatpants sew-along. It’s getting very exciting as we’re almost done sewing! Today we will be finishing up the sweatpants.

    Finish the Sweatpants

    1. Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end of the drawstring and feed the drawstring through one of the buttonholes, around the waist, and back out through the other buttonhole.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Adjust the length as needed and knot the ends or fold the ends under twice by 1/4” and edge stitch the innermost fold to finish them.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Hint: To prevent the drawstring from being pulled out of the casing, topstitch it to the center back waist as shown in the photo.

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    All done!

     

    Oliver + S Parachute Sweatpants sew-along

     

    Please do share photos of your finished sweatpants in the Flickr group. And be sure to tag your photos with #oliverands if you use Instagram. Thanks so much for joining us this week. So, who’s going to sew another pair?

    LINK
    Profile photo of Liesl GibsonLiesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    How is this format working for everyone? We thought it would be nice to give the sew-alongs a home where they’ll be easy to find, especially if you have questions about the pattern. Plus, it frees up the blog for other exciting things!

    LINK
    Profile photo of BrittneyBrittney @georgeandizzy

    @liesl The only thing I can think of, is that you would have to remember to come and check every day. Because @nestfullofeggs modifies the post, which seems the right thing to do since it flows and wouldn’t be interrupted by comments/discussion, it doesn’t refresh the topic on the main page.

    LINK
    Profile photo of Liesl GibsonLiesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Yes, I was wondering about that myself. Rachel (@nestfullofeggs), maybe it’s better to add a new post for each day of the sew-along? I think the updates get lost otherwise. In other words, maybe each day of the sew-along should be a reply to the post instead of modifying the original post? Do you think that would be better, @georgeandizzy?

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    Profile photo of BrittneyBrittney @georgeandizzy

    @liesl, maybe? I do like the way it flows when it’s all together, though. Or keep modifying and add a comment when it is posted?

    LINK
    Profile photo of BrittneyBrittney @georgeandizzy

    I like the tip for the fake flatlock. My first pair I used a straight stitch and didn’t love it as much so I left it off the other pairs, I think I will give this a try.

    LINK
    Profile photo of Liesl GibsonLiesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    That’s a great idea, Brittney! That way you get the reminder that it’s been updated but it all stays in one place. Thanks for the suggestion. And I hope the flatlock works out! I think it’s nice to have that seam stitched down somehow, and the straight stitch works but the flatlock is fancier!

    LINK
    Profile photo of Rachel Le GrandRachel Le Grand @nestfullofeggs

    If you have been joining us for the sweatpants sew-along, day four is now up 🙂

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    Profile photo of Liesl GibsonLiesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Rachel, you’re the best! (@nestfullofeggs)

    LINK
    Profile photo of Sandra S HamousSandra S Hamous @BlueSkies71

    Hello all –

    I am sewing a size 6, using a sweatshirt fleece (fuzzy on one side, smooth on the other) and discovered while hemming the first leg that a 1/2″ channel was just barely too narrow for my 1/2″ non-roll elastic. The stuff is pretty stiff, and the fabric is pretty thick – maybe a softer elastic may have worked better, but that’s what I had! I made it work, though (…by sheer force of will – my machine’s stretch stitch preset is a narrow zigzag impossible to remove without ruining the fabric – works great though – well, until it doesn’t anymore!), and on the second leg, I widened the channel about an 1/8″. There is luckily enough extra length it didn’t matter or affect the length of the legs.

    Just wanted to comment in case anyone else is using sweatshirt fleece and runs into the same issue…! It’s a really fun pattern! Can’t wait to get it finished up. 🙂

    LINK
    Profile photo of Rachel Le GrandRachel Le Grand @nestfullofeggs

    And now the fifth and final day of the sew-along is up. It’s time to finish up those sweatpants!

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