Oliver + S

Sewing for a plus size tween

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    Profile photo of KimKim @kmac0107

    I have to sew a dress for a tween, going into 7th grade, to wear to a wedding. She chose the Sis Boom Jamie dress pattern it’s here in the Oliver & S shop. I met her yesterday and took her measurements chest 38, waist 38 and hips 42. She’s about 5’3″. It has a fitted waist so I thought it would draw the eye in to look like she has a waist instead of straight up and down. I have only sewn Oliver & S patterns for my granddaughters under age 6. I understand I would start at the waist measurement. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to fit this dress.

    • This topic was modified 1 year ago by Profile photo of Kim Kim.
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    Profile photo of brenda1652brenda1652 @brenda1652

    Personally I always go with the chest measurement to determine a size. That measurement determines fit not only across the chest but also across the back and the armscye (armhole for sleeveless or sleeve size). In the case of Jamie if you go with the waist size it measures a 1X which is 2 sizes larger than her chest size, which is a size L. You would need to decease both the chest and across the back as well as the armscyes so the top is not baggy with armhole openings extending down the sides and being baggy all over. Keep in mind also that plus size girls usually are large around the chest measurement but many times do not have much of a cup size, making the darts and fitting all off for patterns with fitted tops. The waist size is easier to adjust and the hip size is not important in that pattern. Have you considered a pattern with a less fitted top? You could do a peasant style and then wrap a wide waist or empire level tie which would be flattering. You could go with the same fabric or a coordinating one, or a different pattern/color on each side of the sash. This type of pattern would be fun and youthful with far less flitting issues. Sis Boom has several in that style, such as the Dana pattern and you could wrap a wide empire sash on that in a coordinating color which would give it a more fitted appearance. Just an idea, but if you are up to doing alterations (several of the O+S sewists are quite advanced in their skills, I am personally not one of them!) and she is available for a few fittings then you could use any pattern.

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    Profile photo of KimKim @kmac0107

    Thank you for your help I did what you suggested and went with the chest measurement. I cut a 12/14 bodice out and put a pin at the intersection of the underarm and side seam allowance and pivoted it out to a 1X. Then cut the waistband out for a 1X. It seemed to work, I’m waiting to hear if it fits. Fingers crossed.

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    Profile photo of brenda1652brenda1652 @brenda1652

    Good for you! tweens are difficult to fit since their baby parts all seem to grow at different times and I am sure she will feel very pretty and special in a dress made just for her. I have found that the new site for Patsy Aiken Designs has girls patterns up and including a size 16. They are similar in style to many of the O+S patterns but fill in for a size that is sadly neglected in the pattern world. I have asked them to post a size chart on their page, hopefully they will do this. I have bought many fabrics from them in years past and the quality is superb, they note that they will resume selling fabrics at some point so I keep checking. http://www.chezami.com/

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