Oliver + S

Maritime-stuck on what to do next

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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    Profile photo of MmollettMmollett @Mmollett

    I made a muslin of the maritime top and attempted to petite it. (I am 5’0″.) I am unsure what I need to do next to get a better fit. I have been told FBA but seems weird since I am a B cup. I will attempt to attach a picture.

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    Profile photo of MmollettMmollett @Mmollett

    Here is the front view

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    Profile photo of RobinRobin @Robin

    Hi There, sometimes it’s better to go by measurements rather than cup size. Measure your full bust and your high bust. Look at the difference between the 2 numbers. If it’s more than 2 1/2″ you may want to do an FBA.

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    Profile photo of MmollettMmollett @Mmollett

    My high bust is a 36 and full bust is 38. Under bust is 32

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    Profile photo of KerrilynKerrilyn @Kerrilyn

    To me it looks like you need a bust dart or equivalent to get rid of those diagonal folds (or whatever the technical name is) running up the side.

    Whether you need more around will depend on how tight/loose you like to wear your tops.

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    Profile photo of KerrilynKerrilyn @Kerrilyn

    Okay I have done a rough sketch to illustrate what I mean. I use the gathers/ease on tops that don’t take darts so well. Now it does not have to be gathered, if it isn’t much it can be eased in be stretching the pieces to fit in that area. Working out how much can be a bit tricky. Looking in the mirror and lifting the top up at the bra band level until those diagonal folds disappear can give you an idea of how much needs to be darted or gathered. Curving the side seam a little will give a little more room in the bust area. Remember that when adding a dart or gathers/ease the total length of you front pattern piece will now be longer than the back to account for the length it loses at the side when the dart or gathers/ease are put in and to allow it to curve over your bust in front too without curving up in the middle front. I do hope that all makes sense.

    It is worth the time working it out as your top will look good when finished. I have to fiddle with darts all the time being tall (5’9″).

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