A few months ago when I was preparing to move to (again–you might remember that I just moved two years ago), I was packing up both my apartment and my studio (again) and feeling really overwhelmed by it all. I decided to donate a bunch of clothes–mostly things that Sinclaire didn’t want anymore, but also a stack of my own sewing. I couldn’t face moving anything else! (Now I regret my spontaneous decision to donate the linen wrap skirt that I made using the pattern for the Copenhagen Wrap Dress. I just realized that I never showed it to you, and I wished I could wear it many times this summer.)
In any case, as I was preparing a few bags for the local donation point I pulled out several pairs of jeans and impulsively decided to improvise a patchwork Helsinki Jacket from them. All those different shades of denim were just begging to be joined together. See what I mean?
Given my time restraints, I kept things simple. I cut each pair of jeans open at the inseam and the rise to make use of the fabric in the largest pieces possible. I patched the fabric together in pieces large enough for the pattern pieces I needed to cut. Then I placed the cut pieces into a box, and they have been sitting in my new studio ever since, as I worked to finish the fall patterns. This week I desperately needed a palate cleanser (and a vacation), so I opened the box and started sewing.
One of the things I love about this jacket is how quickly it goes together. There are very few pieces, especially if you eliminate the pockets, which I decided to do so I could focus on relaxing and keeping things simple. Life hasn’t felt very simple lately, so I’ll take that simplicity wherever I can get it.
Since I hadn’t given much thought or planning to this project, I was feeling a little nervous about it. What if it looks silly when I finish it? But then this landed in my inbox and gave me a little encouragement and inspiration to keep going: Gee’s Bend has partnered up with Ralph Lauren as an artist in residence, and it’s gorgeous! It’s a brilliant collaboration for a brand based on Americana. I remember when the Whitney Museum exhibited the work of Gee’s Bend in New York many years ago. It elevated quilting to a real art form in many people’s eyes. The art world historically hasn’t given much credence to quilting, historically.
My jacket doesn’t bear much resemblance to the Gee’s Bend jacket, but the general idea of patchwork denim feels a little “on trend,” especially if you’ve seen the most recent men’s runway photos from Ralph Lauren. (Here are a few of the pieces in motion.) I’m eying the denim patchwork on the khaki trousers (Look 57), and the denim patchwork eveningwear is absolutely spectacular. And don’t miss the wool patchwork! So I’ve decided I’m not going to worry about my version; I’m just going to enjoy the process of making it. I’m thinking that it will go well with some of my bias satin Garibaldi skirts when it’s finished too. I love a little high-low dressing.
Incidentally, we have another patchwork- and quilting- inspired pattern releasing this fall. I’ve had so much fun designing it and making it, and I hope you will enjoy it too. I can’t wait to tell you about it soon.
In the meantime, I’m enjoying a little respite while I hand finish this jacket and sit by the pool. Cooler days aren’t far away, although they certainly feel like it right now. I’ve got a little help, too. (This was his stand-by harness until the real one arrived. It’s a bit undistinguished for such a handsome guy, but the new one is very elegant.) I’ll post it to my personal Instagram so you can see how classy he looks!
If you’re starting to plan your fall sewing, the Helsinki Jacket is a great place to start. Easy to sew, goes with almost anything, and that big collar is so elegant. Maybe you’d like to try your hand at a little patchwork for it, too? My favorite version is still the white wool jacket I made. It never fails to get compliments, and I’m looking forward to wearing it again soon. You can get a copy of the pattern for yourself either in paper or in digital format right here on our website.
I’ll show you this denim version when I finish it, but right now I’m not in a big rush. I hope you’re enjoying a few lazy summer days yourself.
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