sew + tell: shams’ lisette B6385 coat

Please welcome Shams back to the blog. She stopped by last week to share her Lisette moto jacket. Now she is here to talk about her Lisette coat. Take it away Shams!

Lisette for Butterick B6385 Coat

Name: Shams
Where can we find you on the internet? Blog, Instagram, Pinterest

Project details
Link to your project: Teal Lisette Coat
Pattern used: Lisette for Butterick B6385
Fabric used: Paisley brocade from B & J Fabrics. Silk polka dot lining from Metro Textiles. Vintage buttons from Britex. Both fabrics were purchased last July when I visited NYC.

Did the fabric work well?

Yes! This fabric was a complete delight to sew and press, and it raveled minimally for a brocade. The fabric design features a large repeating print and, when laid out on a table, the overall effect was a bit overwhelming. I loved its colors and the paisley motif, but I didn’t want to look like an upholstered sofa, so I intentionally broke up the print when I cut it out. I changed direction for adjacent pattern pieces: one piece was laid out on-grain in one direction, the next on-grain in the other direction, and other pieces were cut across the grain, also using both directions.

I wanted the print to look more random and cutting it in different directions achieved that result.

Lisette for Butterick B6385 Coat

How did the sewing go?

I made quite a few alterations, as I always do, for fit. (My figure requires what I call Extreme Pattern Hacking.) I also made a couple design changes: replaced the inseam pockets with welt pockets (my favorite kind of pocket), and added inside patch pockets (very handy for a travel garment).

I also reinforced the standing collar. I first fuse a light-to-medium weight interfacing to the front and back collar (in this case, a single pattern piece). I then add a crescent shaped, crisp, sew-in interfacing only to the outer collar. I hold it in place with rows of machine quilting parallel to the curved edge of the crescent. (There are photos on the blog post.) I do this on every stand-up collar that I sew since I hate a limp collar.

Once all of my alterations were done, the coat sewed together like a dream. I had absolutely no problems.

Lisette for Butterick B6385 Coat

What was the best part?

As always, the best part is in wearing it! This coat was a core garment in the wardrobe that I sewed for my recent trip to Munich and Paris, and I wore the heck out of it. I love the vintage Bakelite buttons (which look like Saturn), the clean design lines, the princess seams with Dior darts, and the fact that the coat fits like a dream. The fun lining makes me smile. I receive loads of compliments when I wear it, so thanks for designing a great pattern!

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7 Comments

  1. What an amazing coat!

  2. robbie

    Gorgeous Coat–the fabric is like eye candy!

  3. cygne2

    Wow! What extraordinary coat! You nailed everything: the superb fabric, the considered layout, the vintage buttons, and of course, the perfect fit. It looks absolutely couture. The only thing missing is Bill Cunningham, who would have captured you for sure in that coat!

  4. Stephanie

    I LOVE this coat. Looks so good on you. Congratulations on a fabulous outfit.

  5. TC

    I sewed a test run of this pattern using a cheap gabardine fabric that I got for $2.99/yd. I buy clothes in a size 6 or 8, so I cut the pattern out using the size 10 lines—WAY too small. It sewed up to about a size 4, maybe 6. Any suggestions?

    1. Hi TC, Traditional pattern sizing doesn’t run the same as contemporary “vanity” sizing. It’s important to pay attention to your body measurements when you choose your sewing pattern size. Here’s a blog post that can help: https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2013/11/finding-your-correct-pattern-size.html

  6. TC

    Thank you so much. That is incredibly helpful.

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