{"id":78746,"date":"2022-05-04T07:38:30","date_gmt":"2022-05-04T11:38:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/?p=78746"},"modified":"2022-05-06T02:46:49","modified_gmt":"2022-05-06T06:46:49","slug":"tutorial-how-to-sew-a-double-welt-pocket-with-button-loop","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2022\/05\/tutorial-how-to-sew-a-double-welt-pocket-with-button-loop.html","title":{"rendered":"tutorial: how to sew a double-welt pocket with button loop"},"content":{"rendered":"

Shelley is back with one of her thorough tutorials for adding thoughtful little details to garments.<\/em><\/p>\n

My first attempt at a double-welt pocket with button loop on my Classic Shirt dress<\/a> was a bit \u201corganic.\u201d I managed to make it look wonkier by using a striped fabric. Stripes really call for precision!<\/p>\n

If you\u2019ve sewn a welt from one of the Oliver + S or Liesl + Co. patterns, you\u2019d be familiar with the process of constructing the welt and the pocket all from the one piece of fabric. But what if you want to make a welt out of different fabrics?<\/p>\n

I worked out a way to get exactly 1\/4\u201d welts across a 1\/2\u201d pocket while using multiple fabrics. So, I set about making another top and photographing the process. Being a Melbournian, I like to wear a lot of black (it\u2019s really a thing<\/a>).<\/p>\n

The problem with black is it\u2019s not the best fabric for photographing a tutorial. Let\u2019s see how we go.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

How to sew a double-welt pocket with button-loop<\/h2>\n

First, assemble the fabrics you want to use for the welts and the button loops. I\u2019ve chosen five different Liberty lawn fabrics: four to be used for the welts and one to be the button loop on both pockets.<\/p>\n

For the welts, cut rectangles of fabric measuring 1 1\/2\u201d by 6″. You\u2019ll need two of these rectangles per pocket. Fold them wrong sides together along the long edges and press.<\/p>\n

For the button loop, cut on the bias a longer rectangle of 1 1\/2\u201d by 7\u201d.<\/p>\n

Now we’re ready to get started.<\/p>\n

Step 1:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Mark the position of your pocket on the right side of your dress\/top front. I\u2019m using the Verdun Woven T-Shirt<\/a> and so I\u2019ve copied across the markings for the pocket position.<\/p>\n

Then add another line that\u2019s parallel to the pocket marking line and exactly 1\/2\u201d below it.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 2:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Choose the folded welt rectangle that you want to have at the upper position of the finished welt.<\/p>\n

Position the raw edges of the folded welt along the lower line that you drew on the top\/dress front. The welt will be longer than the marked line by about 2″. Ensure you have an even 1\u201d of welt extending beyond the pocket placement dots on each side. The side of the welt that you want to show on the shirt front should be facing up at this stage.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 3:\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pin the welt in place using a pin at the level of each of the dots marking the corners of the welt. These end pins will indicate the start and stop points of your stitching.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 4: <\/strong><\/p>\n

Stitch between the dots\/pins with a 1\/2″ seam allowance from the raw edge. If you prefer you can reference the folded edge and stitch exactly 1\/4\u201d from the folded edge. You’ll get the same result either way.<\/p>\n

At this point I also stitched the button loop. Take the longer, bias-cut rectangle set aside for the button loop and fold it right-sides together along the long edge. Stitch with a 1\/2\u201d seam. Trim the seam allowance to 1\/8\u201d and turn the loop right side out.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 5:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Now take the folded rectangle that you want to use as your lower welt and place it with the raw edge touching the stitching line of the upper welt. Again, mark your pocket marking dots with pins.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

As you pin the lower welt in place, make sure that you\u2019re not trapping the raw edge of the upper welt.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 6:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Stitch the lower welt between the dots 1\/2\u201d from the raw edge (or 1\/4\u201d from the folded edge).<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 7:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Cut the welt open as you would normally do for a welt pocket. Make a cut along the shirt front that centered between the stitched welts, stopping about 1\/2\u201d from the ends and then extending to each corner. Snip as close as possible to the ends of your stitching at the dots.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 8:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Push the welts through the opening, turning them to the wrong side of the top\/dress front. Press.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 9:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Cut the turned button loop into two 3\u201d lengths. Mark the center of the upper welt and pin the raw ends of the button loop at this marking. Position the seamline of the button loop facing up so it won\u2019t be visible at the shirt front when finished.<\/p>\n

Baste the button loop in place.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 10:<\/strong><\/p>\n

With the top\/dress facing up, fold one side toward the center to expose the short side of the welt. Stitch the little triangle of the top\/dress to the upper and lower welts to lock them neatly in place. A very slightly curved stitching line works well here to keep the short ends of the welt tidy. Repeat on the other side.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Turn it over and admire your finished welt with button loop<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 11:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Now we\u2019re ready to add the pocket bags. Some of the pocket bag will be visible between the slits of the welt so I\u2019ve used the same black fabric as my top. Cut two 6\u201d by 9\u201d rectangles for the pockets.<\/p>\n

My black fabric is hard to photograph, so I\u2019ve shaded the pocket bags a lighter grey in the following images.<\/p>\n

Pin one short side of a pocket bag to the raw edge of the lower welt. The pocket bag will be laying right-side down against the wrong side of the top\/dress, directed towards the shoulder.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 12:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Stitch the pocket bag to the lower welt. Sew with the pocket bag underneath so that you can see the welt and the previous stitching line. Stitch the length of the welt close to the previous stitching. Press the pocket bag and seam allowances down away from the welt.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

Step 13:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sew on the buttons. Mark the button position on the front of the shirt by inserting a fabric marker pen through the button loop. Sew the buttons on the shirt front through both the shirt fabric and pocket bag, securing the pocket bag in place<\/p>\n

Step 14:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Fold the lower short edge of the pocket bag up to meet the upper welt\u2019s raw edge. Stitch the upper welt to the pocket bag. Again, place it pocket side down so you can stitch as close as possible to the previous welt stitching.<\/p>\n

Stitch the side seams. Then finish the top and side seams allowances of each pocket.<\/p>\n

\"Tutorial<\/p>\n

And you\u2019re finished! A lovely, neat, double-welt pocket with button loop. Perfect for a Classic Shirt<\/a> dress, or a Verdun Woven T-Shirt, or pretty much any other garment you can think of.<\/p>\n

\"how<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A double-welt pocket is an eye-catching detail to add to your handmade garments. A button-loop adds even more flair. Shelley’s showing you how to do it in this post.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6023,"featured_media":78965,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[20687,3],"tags":[20665,140,117],"class_list":["post-78746","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general","category-tutorials","tag-pockets","tag-tutorial","tag-welt-pocket"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/double-welt-hero.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p5jZS5-ku6","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":45116,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2015\/04\/customizing-the-art-museum-pattern-adding-bow-welt-pockets.html","url_meta":{"origin":78746,"position":0},"title":"customizing the art museum pattern: adding bow welt pockets","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"April 28, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Learn how to add bow welt pockets to the Oliver + S Art Museum Vest + Trousers. It's a cute detail and a lot easier to do than you think!","rel":"","context":"In "tutorials"","block_context":{"text":"tutorials","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/tutorials"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/BowWeltsTITLE.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":69761,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2019\/07\/liesls-classic-shirt-with-double-welt-pockets.html","url_meta":{"origin":78746,"position":1},"title":"liesl’s classic shirt with double welt pockets","author":"Liesl Gibson","date":"July 10, 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Liesl is here today to share with you a Classic Shirt she has made with double welt pockets using the pocket detail from the Gelato Blouse + Dress.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/Pockets2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":8142,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2013\/10\/tutorial-how-to-sew-a-welt-pocket.html","url_meta":{"origin":78746,"position":2},"title":"how to sew a welt pocket","author":"skirt as top","date":"October 29, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Intimidated by the thought of sewing a welt pocket? Our welt pocket tutorial will guide you through the steps easily and clearly so you'll be sewing welt pockets in no time!","rel":"","context":"In "tutorials"","block_context":{"text":"tutorials","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/tutorials"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/finished-welt-pocket-oliver-and-s-blog.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":72932,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/01\/how-to-sew-a-fully-enclosed-welt-pocket.html","url_meta":{"origin":78746,"position":3},"title":"how to sew a fully enclosed welt pocket","author":"Masha Richart","date":"January 29, 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Here's a tutorial that shows you how to sew a welt pocket with a clean finish on the inside that allows you to show off a beautiful design or a fun print.","rel":"","context":"In "tutorials"","block_context":{"text":"tutorials","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/tutorials"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/welt-hero-image.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":75691,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/09\/shelleys-extra-sharp-pencil-skirt-with-gelato-welts.html","url_meta":{"origin":78746,"position":4},"title":"adding welt pockets to the extra-sharp pencil skirt","author":"Masha Richart","date":"September 21, 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Shelley modified the Extra-Sharp Pencil Skirt to look even sharper, by borrowing a detail from another Liesl + Co. pattern. We think this is such a clever idea. Read on to see how she did it.","rel":"","context":"In "tutorials"","block_context":{"text":"tutorials","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/tutorials"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/shelley-hero.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":66807,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2018\/09\/eleven-tutorials-for-pockets.html","url_meta":{"origin":78746,"position":5},"title":"eleven tutorials for pockets","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"September 12, 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Today it\u2019s all about pockets. Here are eleven pocket tutorials from our archives that will help you make the perfect pocket every time.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/pocketsF.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/78746","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6023"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=78746"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/78746\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":78975,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/78746\/revisions\/78975"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/78965"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=78746"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=78746"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=78746"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}