![\"How](\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/broad-shoulder-pinable.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nBroad shoulder adjustment tutorial: How do you know you need one?<\/h2>\n
I have been mulling over how to demonstrate fit issues that I don’t personally have. While browsing an online store, I came across a garment image that perfectly illustrates the need for a broad shoulder adjustment.<\/p>\n
The first clue for me was the way these t-shirt sleeves flare out at the hem. They don’t lay nicely because too much of the fabric is curved over the shoulder. If the shoulder were dropped, the hem would fall properly and the sleeve wouldn’t stick out.<\/p>\n My second clue was in what appears to be a drag line that was retouched. On the model’s left side, there is a dark spot that I suspect is a Photoshopped wrinkle that points to the shoulder. I’ve pointed it out in the image below. This type of drag line indicates that the shoulder is too narrow.<\/p>\n Generally speaking, the shoulder seam on a pattern with a regular (not intentionally dropped) shoulder should hit at about the ball of your shoulder, where it hinges when you lift your arm. You can measure the difference by making a quick muslin and seeing where the shoulder seam falls on you. Or you can eyeball it by holding up the pattern piece to your body. Once you know how big your adjustment should be, it’s time to mark and slice your pattern.<\/p>\n Step 1:<\/strong> Prepare your front bodice piece for cutting. To do this, mark the center point of the shoulder seam with a dot on the seam line. Make another dot on the seam line about 1\/3 of the way down the armscye.<\/p>\n Draw a line along the dots from one edge to the other (indicated by the purple line below). Draw another line from the corner to the line you just drew (indicated by the green line below). This line should be perpendicular to the first line.<\/p>\n Step 2:<\/strong> Next, cut along the purple line, starting from the shoulder seam and cutting to, but not through, the armscye. Leave a small paper “hinge” so that you can pivot the pattern in the next step.<\/p>\n Step 3:<\/strong>\u00a0Next, cut along the green line, starting from the cut you just made and ending at the outer corner of the shoulder seam. Cut to, but not through, the outer corner, again leaving a paper hinge.<\/p>\n Step 4:<\/strong>\u00a0Slip a piece of paper under your pattern. A scrap is fine for this purpose. We are going to spread the pattern piece along the cut purple line. The distance we spread it will be equal to the amount of your adjustment, measured on the seam line. (Hint: It helps to spread it a little, and then tape down the pattern piece on the side of the purple line that is closest to the neckline.)<\/p>\n In this case, I made a mark on my scrap paper that was 1\/4″ from my cut, shifted towards the armscye. I made sure to keep it even with the seam line.<\/p>\n Step 5:<\/strong>\u00a0Connect the dots. Move the slashed pieces away from the neckline, widening the shoulder, until the edge of the cut purple line meets your new dot and the shoulder edge makes a straight line. The slash in the corner of the shoulder will overlap a bit as you do this. The end result is to widen the shoulder seam while keeping the armscye length intact so you don’t have to adjust your sleeve.<\/p>\n Tape the pieces in place. Now repeat this procedure on the back bodice, and you’re done!<\/p>\n And that’s all there is to it! If you’re interested in more fitting tutorials and general fit-related geekiness, check out our library of fitting resources<\/a> and our tutorials<\/a> tag. Happy fitting!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Do you have broad shoulders? If your tops feel tight across the shoulders, you may need a broad shoulder adjustment. A garment that is too narrow in the shoulders can pull at the armhole seams. The sleeves may look distorted, …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6023,"featured_media":76583,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[20821,140],"class_list":["post-76566","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tutorials","tag-fit","tag-tutorial"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/broad-shoulder-hero.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p5jZS5-jUW","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":73297,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/02\/how-to-do-a-narrow-shoulder-adjustment.html","url_meta":{"origin":76566,"position":0},"title":"how to do a narrow shoulder adjustment","author":"Masha Richart","date":"February 5, 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Adjusting the shoulder width of a sewing pattern is a simple alteration that can drastically improve the fit of your handmade garment. Learn how to do a narrow shoulder adjustment with this photo tutorial. These instructions can also be used in reverse to do a wide shoulder adjustment.","rel":"","context":"In "tutorials"","block_context":{"text":"tutorials","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/tutorials"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/narrow-shoulder-hero.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":75674,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/09\/the-fitting-room-laurens-classic-shirt.html","url_meta":{"origin":76566,"position":1},"title":"the fitting room: lauren’s classic shirt","author":"Masha Richart","date":"September 14, 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"In our latest installment of The Fitting Room, Lauren will be talking about the adjustments she did while fitting the Classic Shirt. If you're interested in shirt fitting, you won't want to miss this one!","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/Lauren-hero.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":76534,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2021\/02\/fitting-resources-from-liesl-co.html","url_meta":{"origin":76566,"position":2},"title":"fitting resources from liesl + co.","author":"Masha Richart","date":"February 3, 2021","format":false,"excerpt":"Interested in fitting? We've built a fitting resource library here on the blog. This post highlights all the posts and tutorials we have to help you achieve a perfect fit on your next garment.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/fitting-resources-hero.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":74554,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/06\/the-fitting-room-camelias-saint-germain-wrap-dress.html","url_meta":{"origin":76566,"position":3},"title":"the fitting room: camelia’s saint-germain wrap dress","author":"Masha Richart","date":"June 17, 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Camelia has honed her fitting ability through years of sewing for herself. Here she walks us through her muslin process to show how she achieved a stunning fit on her Saint-Germain Wrap Dress. Fitting really doesn't take that much time, and the results speak for themselves.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/camelia-hero.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":80990,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2023\/05\/the-fitting-room-santa-rosa-forward-should-adjustment.html","url_meta":{"origin":76566,"position":4},"title":"the fitting room: santa rosa forward should adjustment","author":"Lyndsey Stanfill","date":"May 8, 2023","format":false,"excerpt":"Lyndsey is sharing her new Santa Rosa Dress for The Fitting Room series. In this post, she analyzes the muslin for fit and demonstrates how to make a forward shoulder adjustment. In the final dress, you can see how the fit adjustments paid off!","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Liesl-Co-Hero-Template-11.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":80665,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2023\/03\/the-fitting-room-lyndseys-strasbourg-henley.html","url_meta":{"origin":76566,"position":5},"title":"the fitting room: lyndsey’s strasbourg henley","author":"Lyndsey Stanfill","date":"March 15, 2023","format":false,"excerpt":"In this installment of The Fitting Room, Lyndsey shares adjustments to her Strasbourg Henley to get an amazing fit, including how to raise the neckline. Click over to see all the adjustments and the final outcome!","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/Liesl-Co-Hero-Template-16.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/76566","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6023"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=76566"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/76566\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":76585,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/76566\/revisions\/76585"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/76583"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=76566"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=76566"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=76566"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\nDetermining how much to adjust<\/h2>\n
Broad shoulder adjustment tutorial steps<\/h2>\n
<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n