{"id":75775,"date":"2020-09-28T08:20:21","date_gmt":"2020-09-28T12:20:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/?p=75775"},"modified":"2020-09-28T10:38:01","modified_gmt":"2020-09-28T14:38:01","slug":"four-patterns-one-fabric","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/09\/four-patterns-one-fabric.html","title":{"rendered":"four patterns, one fabric"},"content":{"rendered":"

Today we’re welcoming Lyndsey<\/a> from our Advisors Circle<\/a>. She has sewn up four Liesl + Co. patterns in the same fabric to create a fit baseline for herself in the future. Read on to see how she did it.<\/em><\/p>\n

A long sleeve t-shirt was on my fall sewing plans this year, but I couldn\u2019t decide which pattern to use. Liesl + Co. sells several long-sleeved knit patterns, but I was having a hard time visualizing which one was best for me.<\/p>\n

If I were trying to decide between woven patterns, I would sew muslins to compare and check the fit. Sewing muslins for knits is tricky though, as each knit fabric has a different amount of stretch. After mulling it over for a few days, I decided that I would sew four different long sleeve t-shirt patterns in the same exact fabric: the Neighborhood Sweatshirt<\/a>, the Bento Tee<\/a>, the Maritime Knit Top<\/a> and the Metro T-Shirt<\/a>. That way, I would have a base comparison of how each pattern fit me, and I would have four new long-sleeved t-shirts to add to my core wardrobe for the fall!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Keeping design ease intact<\/h2>\n

I knew I would need to make my usual pattern adjustments, but I wanted to maintain the design ease drafted into each pattern.<\/p>\n

Design ease is the amount of room added by the pattern designer beyond wearing ease to achieve a certain look or style. For example, if the pattern body measurements call for a 33″ waist and the finished waist measures 43″, then the amount of design ease in the pattern is 10″.<\/p>\n

Sometimes I want more or less design ease for the look I am trying to achieve with a pattern, but for this project, I wanted to use the intended design ease while adjusting for my body shape. I prepared the patterns, took my measurements and set to calculating the adjustments.<\/p>\n

All of my adjustments were done equally to front and back pattern pieces using the pivot-and-slide method. [Note: Liesl + Co. has a tutorial for a\u00a0dartless pivot-and-slide FBA<\/a>.]<\/p>\n

Creating a pattern fit baseline<\/h2>\n

I sewed each pattern in the same Robert Kaufman Laguna Jersey. One of the reasons I selected this fabric is because it is usually readily available, and could act as my \u201cstandard\u201d amount of stretch. If I decide to use a fabric that has more or less stretch compared to this jersey in the future, I will have an idea of what adjustments may be needed. I will make a few more tweaks the next time I sew these patterns.<\/p>\n

Neighborhood Sweatshirt<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

First up was the Neighborhood Sweatshirt. I selected a size medium based on my high bust measurement of 36 1\/2″. The pattern\u2019s body measurement for the bust is 37 1\/2″ and the finished measurement is 42″. The difference between those two measurements, 4 1\/2″, is the design ease.<\/p>\n

To maintain that design ease, my final bust measurement after pattern adjustments needed to be 4 1\/2″ inches larger than my actual bust measurement of 39″. This meant that I needed a final bust measurement of 43 1\/2″. The original finished bust measurement was 42″, so I needed to add 1 1\/2″ to the bust.<\/p>\n

I used the pivot-and-slide method to distribute this total amount evenly around the circumference of the bust. I did a 3\/8″ adjustment to both front and back pieces. Since the pattern pieces I adjusted are cut on the fold, this works out to 3\/4″ added to front and back for a total of 1 1\/2″ added. I also added a total of 3″ to the waist and 3 1\/2″ to the hips in order to maintain the design ease.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
<\/td>\nMe<\/strong><\/td>\nPattern Body Size M<\/strong><\/td>\nPattern Finished Size M<\/strong><\/td>\nDesign Ease<\/strong><\/td>\nFinal Measurements <\/strong><\/td>\nAdjustments<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
High Bust<\/strong><\/td>\n36 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Bust<\/strong><\/td>\n39<\/td>\n37 1\/2<\/td>\n42<\/td>\n4 1\/2<\/td>\n43 1\/2<\/td>\n+1 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Waist<\/strong><\/td>\n33<\/td>\n30<\/td>\n43<\/td>\n13<\/td>\n46<\/td>\n+3<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Hips<\/strong><\/td>\n43 1\/2<\/td>\n40<\/td>\n43 1\/2<\/td>\n3 1\/2<\/td>\n47<\/td>\n+3 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Length<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n26 3\/4<\/td>\n<\/td>\n27 1\/4<\/td>\n+1\/2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Bento Tee<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Next up was a long sleeve version of the Bento Tee. I followed the pattern advice to select by bust or hip measurement, whichever was the largest. My waist and hips measured exactly right for a large. The bust measurement for a large was 1 1\/2\u201d larger than my full bust measurement, so I\u2019d have slightly more ease in the bust than how the pattern was drafted.<\/p>\n

I intended to sew View A but without pockets. In order to achieve the length of View A as it was drafted, I determined I needed to add 3 1\/2\u201d length to the View B cut line. I did this using the pivot-and-slide method, and it was the only adjustment I made for this pattern!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
<\/td>\nMe<\/strong><\/td>\nPattern Body Size L<\/strong><\/td>\nPattern Finished Size L<\/strong><\/td>\nDesign Ease<\/strong><\/td>\nFinal Measurements <\/strong><\/td>\nAdjustments<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
High Bust<\/strong><\/td>\n36 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Bust<\/strong><\/td>\n39<\/td>\n40 1\/2<\/td>\n44 3\/4<\/td>\n4 1\/4<\/td>\n44 3\/4<\/td>\n0<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Waist<\/strong><\/td>\n33<\/td>\n33<\/td>\n44 3\/4<\/td>\n11 3\/4<\/td>\n44 3\/4<\/td>\n0<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Hips<\/strong><\/td>\n43 1\/2<\/td>\n43<\/td>\n44 3\/4<\/td>\n1 3\/4<\/td>\n44 3\/4<\/td>\n0<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Length<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n22 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/td>\n26<\/td>\n+3 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

<\/h2>\n

Maritime Knit Top<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The third pattern is the Maritime Top. I selected a size 8 based on my high bust measurement. Using the same method for calculations, my adjustments were +5\/8\u201d at the bust, +1\u201d at the waist, +1\u201d at the hips, and +3\/4\u201d length.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
<\/td>\nMe<\/strong><\/td>\nPattern Body Size 8<\/strong><\/td>\nPattern Finished Size 8<\/strong><\/td>\nDesign Ease<\/strong><\/td>\nFinal Measurements<\/strong><\/td>\nAdjustments<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
High Bust<\/strong><\/td>\n36 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Bust<\/strong><\/td>\n39<\/td>\n36 1\/2<\/td>\n38<\/td>\n1 1\/2<\/td>\n40 1\/2<\/td>\n+2 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Waist<\/strong><\/td>\n33<\/td>\n29<\/td>\n38<\/td>\n9<\/td>\n42<\/td>\n+4<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Hips<\/strong><\/td>\n43 1\/2<\/td>\n39<\/td>\n38<\/td>\n-1<\/td>\n42 1\/2<\/td>\n+4<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Length<\/strong><\/td>\n25 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/td>\n24 1\/4<\/td>\n<\/td>\n25<\/td>\n+3\/4<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

<\/h2>\n

Metro T-Shirt<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The final pattern is the Metro T-shirt. I had sewn a short-sleeved version of this pattern before, but not with a dartless FBA. Technically I should have selected a medium based on my high bust measurement, but the large had worked well previously so I decided to stick with that size. This pattern only provided the body measurement for the bust, so I got to decide how much ease I wanted in the waist and hips. Since the t-shirt is intended to have a slim fit, I decided to maintain the 1 1\/2\u201d design ease at the bust and to allow 5 1\/4\u201d ease at the waist and 2\u201d of ease at the hips. To achieve this on a large, I needed adjustments of +1\/2\u201d at the bust, no adjustment at the waist, and +1 3\/8\u201d at the hips. I didn\u2019t add length.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
<\/td>\nMe <\/strong><\/td>\nPattern Body Size L<\/strong><\/td>\nPattern Finished Size L<\/strong><\/td>\nDesign Ease <\/strong><\/td>\nFinal Measurements <\/strong><\/td>\nAdjustments<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
High Bust<\/strong><\/td>\n36 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Bust<\/strong><\/td>\n39<\/td>\n38-40 1\/2<\/td>\n38 1\/2<\/td>\n1 1\/2<\/td>\n40 1\/2<\/td>\n+2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Waist<\/strong><\/td>\n33<\/td>\n<\/td>\n38 1\/4<\/td>\n5 1\/4<\/td>\n37<\/td>\n0<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Hips<\/strong><\/td>\n43 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/td>\n40<\/td>\n2<\/td>\n45 1\/2<\/td>\n+5 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Length<\/strong><\/td>\n25 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/td>\n25 1\/2<\/td>\n<\/td>\n25 1\/2<\/td>\n0<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

 <\/p>\n

I did not do my usual forward shoulder adjustment, and I can see in every picture that I need to make that adjustment. I also need more length at the center front in every picture to get a hemline parallel to the ground. I added more width to account for a full bust but didn\u2019t add the needed additional length. The Neighborhood Sweatshirt is intended to have a high-low hem, but I would prefer slightly more length in the center front.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Once the sewing was finished, I finally got to see each pattern side by side! You can see that each pattern fills a unique role in my core wardrobe. And now that I know how these patterns fit as intended, going forward I can decide if I want more or less design ease the next time I sew. Hopefully, the side by side pictures are a good reference for you, too!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Today we’re welcoming Lyndsey from our Advisors Circle. She has sewn up four Liesl + Co. patterns in the same fabric to create a fit baseline for herself in the future. Read on to see how she did it. A …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6023,"featured_media":75785,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[20687],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-75775","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/lyndsey-hero.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p5jZS5-jIb","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":77559,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2021\/08\/sewn-by-kids-elises-metro-t-shirt.html","url_meta":{"origin":75775,"position":0},"title":"sewn by kids: elise’s metro t-shirt","author":"Masha Richart","date":"August 25, 2021","format":false,"excerpt":"Ten-year-old Elise made her dad a Metro T-Shirt for Father's\u00a0Day. 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