{"id":74332,"date":"2020-03-25T09:47:52","date_gmt":"2020-03-25T13:47:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/?p=74332"},"modified":"2020-03-20T15:39:26","modified_gmt":"2020-03-20T19:39:26","slug":"mashas-saint-germain-dress","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/03\/mashas-saint-germain-dress.html","title":{"rendered":"masha&#8217;s saint-germain dress"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I fell in love with this dress instantly upon seeing the pattern envelope. The v-neck, the wrap, the buttons and the ruched sleeve were all right up my alley. \u00a0The silhouette and the details combine to create a look that I really haven&#8217;t seen anywhere else.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-74335\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-1-760x1064.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"760\" height=\"1064\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-1-760x1064.jpg 760w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-1-500x700.jpg 500w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-1-768x1075.jpg 768w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-1-1097x1536.jpg 1097w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-1-1200x649.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>When choosing my fabric, I knew that drape was going to be very important. I wanted rayon for its fluidity, but I was hoping for something a little sturdier and less shifty than a challis. I ended up taking a chance on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fabric.com\/buy\/0671140\/telio-taylor-twill-rayon-print-dot-red\">this rayon twill<\/a> in the hopes that the twill weave would render it a little more stable than challises I&#8217;ve worked with in the past. I found that to be true; it&#8217;s lovely and light and drapey, but was still pretty easy to work with.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-9.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-74339\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-9-760x1064.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"760\" height=\"1064\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-9-760x1064.jpg 760w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-9-500x700.jpg 500w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-9-768x1075.jpg 768w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-9-1097x1536.jpg 1097w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-9-1200x649.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h2>Fitting details<\/h2>\n<h3>Full bust adjustment<\/h3>\n<p>I did a lot of fitting work for this dress. First, I did a fitting using my paper pattern, to determine how much of an FBA I would need. (For reference, my high and full bust measurements are 36&#8243;-40&#8243; and I used the 8D bodice graded to the size 12 skirt).<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-12.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-74342\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-12-760x916.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"760\" height=\"916\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-12-760x916.jpg 760w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-12-500x603.jpg 500w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-12-768x925.jpg 768w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-12-1200x649.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The pattern comes with cup sizes, but I still needed to add 1 5\/8&#8243; and a bust dart while performing my FBA. I showed the method I used to make the FBA in our <a href=\"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/02\/saint-germain-wrap-dress-sew-along.html\">Saint-Germain Sew Along<\/a>, which is available for reference if you&#8217;re interested in making this pattern.<\/p>\n<h3>Other adjustments<\/h3>\n<p>There is also a waistband piece that you have to contend with while making these fitting adjustments. I cut the size 8 waistband for the back, and altered the front size 8 waistband by adding the same amount of width to it that I had added to my bodice in the FBA. Then I just adjusted the pleats in my size 12 skirt to fit that waistband.<\/p>\n<p>I also did a 5\/8&#8243; high round back adjustment, a 1\/2&#8243; forward shoulder adjustment and a 1 5\/8&#8243; full bicep adjustment while still in the paper pattern stage of my fitting process.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-11.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-74341\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-11-760x543.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"760\" height=\"543\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-11-760x543.jpg 760w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-11-500x357.jpg 500w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-11-768x548.jpg 768w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-11-1200x649.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Then I made a bodice muslin. The muslin helped me determine my that I also needed to remove a wedge from the shoulder seams in order to eliminate neckline gaping. I took out 1\/2&#8243; from the inner shoulder, tapering to nothing at the outer shoulder. During the muslin stage, I also split the underbust pleats into two smaller pleats, which I thought was a little more flattering to my shape.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-10.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-74340\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-10-760x1079.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"760\" height=\"1079\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-10-760x1079.jpg 760w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-10-500x710.jpg 500w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-10-768x1090.jpg 768w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-10-1082x1536.jpg 1082w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-10-1200x649.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>I also lengthened the skirt 2&#8243; for my 5&#8217;8&#8243; self and I think that was the perfect amount.<\/p>\n<p>My bust dart ended up a little bit too low, as it dropped more than I anticipated it would, but otherwise I think the fit of the dress is pretty good, and I&#8217;m glad I spent all that time getting it right.<\/p>\n<p>I added a hidden snap at the upper &#8220;V&#8221; overlap to keep the neckline secure. I hand-sewed the snaps at the edge, through the bias facing, for more support without needing to use interfacing.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-3.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-74336\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-3-760x1064.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"760\" height=\"1064\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-3-760x1064.jpg 760w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-3-500x700.jpg 500w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-3-768x1075.jpg 768w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-3-1097x1536.jpg 1097w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-3-1200x649.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 760px) 100vw, 760px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Sewing the dress really did not take as long as I thought it would. I saved myself some time and headache by making my neckline bias facing out of cotton shirting instead of the rayon twill. \u00a0I have learned with experience that I really dislike working with rayon bias facings. The extra stability of the cotton meant that I only had to sew that facing on once, and there was no unpicking or rippling.<\/p>\n<p>Although I didn&#8217;t see it on the samples, my version of the dress is giving me a bit of a vintage vibe. I don&#8217;t have anything like it in my closet, so it&#8217;s been a welcome addition to my wardrobe. Have you sewn this dress?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Saint-Germain Dress practically screams &#8220;Spring!&#8221; Masha sewed this one in a light orange rayon twill. It&#8217;s a great Easter dress!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6023,"featured_media":74343,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[20687],"tags":[20821,20818],"class_list":["post-74332","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general","tag-fit","tag-saint-germain-dress"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/msg-hero.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p5jZS5-jkU","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":78532,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2022\/03\/saint-germain-city-stroll-terrace-mash-up.html","url_meta":{"origin":74332,"position":0},"title":"saint germain, city stroll and terrace mash-up","author":"Liesl Gibson","date":"March 16, 2022","format":false,"excerpt":"Liesl combined the Saint Germain Wrap Dress, the City Stroll Wrap Skirt, and the belt from the Terrace Dress into one dress.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;general post&quot;","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/st-germain-city-stroll-mashup.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":74461,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/07\/mommy-and-me-styles-part-2.html","url_meta":{"origin":74332,"position":1},"title":"mommy and me styles, part 2","author":"Masha Richart","date":"July 29, 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Today we're showing you five coordinating dress pattern pairings and one cape pairing that can be made to create Mommy-and-me looks from Oliver + S and Liesl + Co. patterns. We have pattern pairings for every season, and fabric inspiration as well!","rel":"","context":"In &quot;general post&quot;","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Mommyandme2hero.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":73372,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2019\/12\/introducing-the-saint-germain-wrap-dress-sewing-pattern.html","url_meta":{"origin":74332,"position":2},"title":"introducing the saint-germain wrap dress sewing pattern","author":"Liesl Gibson","date":"December 9, 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"We're pleased to introduce you to our newest Liesl + Co. pattern, the Saint-Germain Wrap Dress. It's an easy-to-sew and easy-to-wear woven wrap dress with some unique features.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;general post&quot;","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/SGCover.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":73775,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/02\/elisabeths-saint-germain-dress.html","url_meta":{"origin":74332,"position":3},"title":"elisabeth&#8217;s saint-germain dress","author":"Masha Richart","date":"February 12, 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Elisabeth stops by to share fitting details and her favorite part of sewing the new Saint-Germain Wrap Dress pattern.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;general post&quot;","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/IMG_5525-2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":74554,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/06\/the-fitting-room-camelias-saint-germain-wrap-dress.html","url_meta":{"origin":74332,"position":4},"title":"the fitting room: camelia&#8217;s saint-germain wrap dress","author":"Masha Richart","date":"June 17, 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Camelia has honed her fitting ability through years of sewing for herself. Here she walks us through her muslin process to show how she achieved a stunning fit on her Saint-Germain Wrap Dress. Fitting really doesn't take that much time, and the results speak for themselves.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;general post&quot;","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/camelia-hero.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":73512,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2019\/12\/inspiration-for-the-saint-germain-wrap-dress.html","url_meta":{"origin":74332,"position":5},"title":"inspiration for the saint-germain wrap dress","author":"Liesl Gibson","date":"December 10, 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Liesl provides some fabric and styling inspiration to help you visualize what you might do with her new Saint-Germain Wrap Dress pattern.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;general post&quot;","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/wrap-feature.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/74332","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6023"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=74332"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/74332\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":74600,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/74332\/revisions\/74600"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/74343"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=74332"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=74332"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=74332"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}