{"id":73987,"date":"2020-06-01T09:48:41","date_gmt":"2020-06-01T13:48:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/?p=73987"},"modified":"2020-05-31T22:43:30","modified_gmt":"2020-06-01T02:43:30","slug":"sew-tell-maritime-top-for-spring","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2020\/06\/sew-tell-maritime-top-for-spring.html","title":{"rendered":"sew + tell: maritime top for spring"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nothing says spring like a striped boat-neck top. The Maritime Top<\/a> is just the type of garment I want to wear when the crocuses peek out and the breeze begins to feel slightly less biting.<\/p>\n

In Bogota, where I lived until recently, the weather is spring-like year-round. As an American East Coast girl, though, I found myself living out the seasons vicariously through my Instagram feed. The winter-to-spring transition is my favorite one, so I felt like sewing something to celebrate, notwithstanding the fact that there was no transition at 8770 feet in the Andes Mountains.<\/p>\n

\"French<\/a><\/p>\n

This was my first time making the Maritime Top. I had found a 40″ remnant of cotton French terry at a local shop and the fabric was exceptionally clear about its preferred destiny.<\/p>\n

First things first: I needed to choose my size. With a 36″ high bust, I’m an 8 shoulder in Liesl + Co. patterns (see here<\/a> for more in-depth information about choosing your size). My full bust is 40″, so an FBA was in order. I did not want to add a dart, though I could have; the French terry fabric is fairly stable and it would have worked out just fine.<\/p>\n

I decided to use a pivot-and-slide bust adjustment<\/a>, which adds width without a dart.\u00a0The classic pivot-and-slide is adjusted at the end so as not to enlarge the hip measurement. However, my waist and hips are a size 12, so I adapted the adjustment a bit to keep the extra width there. You can see how I did it in our tutorial<\/a>. The adjustment produced a very pleasing fit for me: fitted enough in the bust, but boxy below it.<\/p>\n

I also did a 5\/8″ high round back adjustment (see a tutorial for this adjustment here<\/a>) and a 3\/8″ low round back adjustment, for a total of 1″ length added in the back. This adjustment adds a center seam to the back of the top, but the improvement in fit is worth it.<\/p>\n

Finally, I also did a 1\/2″ forward shoulder adjustment.<\/p>\n

Thanks to the dropped shoulder, the Maritime has a relaxed sleeve fit. This meant that no full bicep adjustment was needed, which is extremely rare for me. (If you are wondering how to do a full bicep adjustment, please check out Liesl’s tutorial here<\/a>.)<\/p>\n

\"Masha<\/a><\/p>\n

I made one change to the pattern, and that was to add a sleeve cuff to the long-sleeved view. I didn’t shorten the sleeve at all, but added a 5″ cuff to the bottom by cutting two 10″ long pieces whose width equaled the circumference of the sleeve opening.<\/p>\n

I sewed the long ends of each piece of fabric together, right sides together, to make a tube. Then I sewed one end of the cuff to the sleeve bottom, right sides together. I folded the cuff in half, turning the raw edges under to cover the stitching line on the inside of the cuff. I used my coverstitch machine to topstitch the cuff in place. \u00a0I can wear the cuff folded (see photo above) or unfolded (see photo below) depending on how warm I want my lower arms to be.<\/p>\n

Other than the cuff addition, I sewed up the pattern as directed. I did tack down the neckline facings by machine at the shoulder seams, and by hand at center front and back, as it wanted to flip out.<\/p>\n

\"Masha<\/a><\/p>\n

This top has been in regular rotation since I finished it in early January. Have you made this pattern yet? Nothing says spring like the Maritime Top!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nothing says spring like a stripey Maritime Top. Masha sewed this one in French terry, perfect for fluctuating temperatures.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6023,"featured_media":73991,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[20687],"tags":[20821,20666,20680],"class_list":["post-73987","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general","tag-fit","tag-maritime","tag-sew-tell"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/maritime-hero-scaled.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p5jZS5-jfl","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":68117,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2019\/01\/tried-and-true-pattern-liesl-co-maritime-knit-top.html","url_meta":{"origin":73987,"position":0},"title":"tried and true pattern: liesl + co. maritime knit top","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"January 11, 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Do you have a Liesl + Co. sewing pattern that you turn to again and again? Lori does and she\u2019s here to share her tried and true pattern, the Maritime Knit Top.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/maritimeF.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":76796,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2021\/03\/dream-spring-capsule-wardrobe.html","url_meta":{"origin":73987,"position":1},"title":"dream spring capsule wardrobe","author":"Masha Richart","date":"March 24, 2021","format":false,"excerpt":"Spring is here in the Northern Hemisphere, and Masha's planned a dream capsule using Liesl + Co. patterns. Take a look and share your own sewing plans in the comments!","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2021\/03\/spring-Inso-2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":45902,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2015\/05\/new-liesl-co-patterns-now-available.html","url_meta":{"origin":73987,"position":2},"title":"new liesl + co patterns now available","author":"Todd Gibson","date":"May 8, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"We're happy to announce that the new Liesl + Co. patterns for Spring 2015 are now shipping.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/LieslPatterns.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":45228,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2015\/05\/introducing-the-liesl-co-maritime-top.html","url_meta":{"origin":73987,"position":3},"title":"introducing the liesl + co maritime top","author":"Liesl Gibson","date":"May 6, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Introducing the new Liesl + Co. Maritime Knit Top pattern. It's an extremely versatile style that you're sure to make part of your core wardrobe.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LC016MT-D.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":45928,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2015\/05\/fabric-and-styling-inspiration-for-the-maritime-knit-top.html","url_meta":{"origin":73987,"position":4},"title":"fabric and styling inspiration for the maritime knit top","author":"Liesl Gibson","date":"May 11, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Liesl shares her fabric and styling ideas for the Maritime Knit Top.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/mosaicMaritime.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":78619,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2022\/03\/spring-wardrobe-edit-with-liesl-co.html","url_meta":{"origin":73987,"position":5},"title":"spring wardrobe edit with liesl + co.","author":"Masha Richart","date":"March 28, 2022","format":false,"excerpt":"Here are some fresh spring looks that you can recreate using Liesl + Co. patterns.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/spring-style-hero.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/73987","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6023"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=73987"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/73987\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":75256,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/73987\/revisions\/75256"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/73991"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=73987"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=73987"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=73987"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}