{"id":58027,"date":"2016-10-20T09:12:46","date_gmt":"2016-10-20T13:12:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/?p=58027"},"modified":"2016-10-19T14:05:26","modified_gmt":"2016-10-19T18:05:26","slug":"lisette-b6168-gathered-long-sleeve","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2016\/10\/lisette-b6168-gathered-long-sleeve.html","title":{"rendered":"lisette b6168 gathered long sleeve"},"content":{"rendered":"

Shelley<\/a> is back! She always has such a knack for making micro changes to our most popular patterns. Shelley is a modifier and when you take a glance at our tutorial section<\/a> you\u2019ll see many fantastic contributions from her. It\u2019s exceptionally rare for her to sew a pattern exactly as published. And we love her for that because she always comes up with these great garments! Here is another example from her today. Take it away Shelley!<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Gathered<\/a><\/p>\n

Hello everyone. I\u2019m yet to get stuck into my Building Block Dress Book<\/a> which arrived downunder just recently, but I\u2019m as excited about it as you all are. Tinkering with patterns is what I love doing best and now I have a perfect reference book to show me how I should be doing the alterations I want to do!<\/p>\n

However, I can\u2019t imagine that every garment I could possibly think up will be covered in the book. I mean I just dressed my kids as a giant Parmigiano cheese and a flask of Chianti, for their school Italian Day, and there are no patterns out there for that kind of thing! Even if there\u2019s no pattern alteration that seems appropriate, what we learn is how to experiment and play with the fabric to get the look we want.<\/p>\n

And recently I spotted a look that I really did want:<\/p>\n

\"Nordstrom<\/a>
Pinterest link<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Not long after I\u2019d spied that dress on Pinterest and started thinking about how the Lisette for Butterick B6168<\/a> would be the perfect basis, Liesl shared an almost identical dress on her Weekend Links post<\/a> with exactly the same suggestion. I knew I was on a winner.<\/p>\n

My real dress planning notebook is full of incomprehensible squiggles, sketches and calculations, but let\u2019s imagine it this way:<\/p>\n

\"Lisette<\/a><\/p>\n

I made a bodice muslin which is only worth mentioning as a warning not to add too much length to the bodice of this dress as the V plunge may become indecent! No pictures. Enough said.<\/p>\n

The sleeve pattern piece was the only part that needed to be redrawn.<\/p>\n

The original looks like this:<\/p>\n

\"sleeve<\/a><\/p>\n

I marked the centre line of the sleeve staying parallel to the grain cutting line and extended it down. The width of the sleeve was widened slightly at the top \u2013 the original cap sleeve is fairly narrow and I\u2019ve got big biceps (*cough*), and then tapered. I simply wrapped a loose tape measure around my elbow to get the width of the bottom of the sleeve.<\/p>\n

\"altered<\/a><\/p>\n

To allow the outer sleeve to be gathered up I added the curved section giving the outer sleeve about 2 inches extra length. By marking the right side of the fabric at the centre bottom edge and the circle shown above, I could draw a straight line where the gathering would occur.<\/p>\n

Now here\u2019s the magic part. The B6168 sleeve is made of a double layer sleeve and so is absolutely perfect for this gathering. The inner and outer sleeve are sewn together at the hem, then understitched.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s then simply a matter of cutting two pieces of elastic, say \u00bd\u201d wide and about 2\u201d long and pinning them in-between the sleeve layers of each sleeve, following the vertical line you drew earlier. Sewing with a zig zag stitch from the hemmed edge upwards, while holding the elastic stretched will gather the outer sleeve.<\/p>\n

The circle shows the height of the inner sleeve hem and you can then decide whether to go lower, higher or the same height with the gathering of the outer sleeve hem.<\/p>\n

\"Gathered<\/a><\/p>\n

Using a fabric with a really soft drape like rayon changes this dress up quite a bit and I think the longer, gathered sleeves suit the flowing fabric nicely. The bodice pleats end up a lot softer and it might have even been a good idea to gather rather than pleat the bodice.<\/p>\n

\"Gathered<\/a><\/p>\n

And there\u2019s a whole new area to explore \u2013 letting the fabric choice influence the pattern design. I can\u2019t even begin to imagine the day when I\u2019ll sew something and know from the start quite how it will turn out!<\/p>\n

Have you caught Building Block fever and started seeing patterns as potential starting points?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Thanks to Shelley, we have a nice micro modification on how to make a gathered long sleeve on the Lisette for Butterick B6168 fit-and-flare dress.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7455,"featured_media":58028,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[20658,88,140],"class_list":["post-58027","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tutorials","tag-b6168","tag-lisette","tag-tutorial"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/b6168F.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p5jZS5-f5V","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":51064,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2015\/10\/sew-tell-colettes-lisette-b6168-dress.html","url_meta":{"origin":58027,"position":0},"title":"sew + tell: colette\u2019s lisette b6168 dress","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"October 22, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"See what Colette made using the Lisette B6168 dress pattern. It's pretty!","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/colette.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":49383,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2015\/09\/sew-tell-lisette-b6168-dress-sewn-by-sarah.html","url_meta":{"origin":58027,"position":1},"title":"sew + tell: lisette b6168 dress sewn by sarah","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"September 9, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Here's what Sarah created using the Lisette B6168 fit-and-flare dress sewing pattern.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/Lisette.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":43391,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2015\/03\/style-and-fabric-inspiration-lisette-b6168-dress.html","url_meta":{"origin":58027,"position":2},"title":"style and fabric inspiration: lisette B6168 dress","author":"Liesl Gibson","date":"March 5, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Liesl provides some fabric and styling inspiration for the new Lisette B6168 sewing pattern for Butterick.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/B315-Cov-1-Dom.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":47966,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2015\/06\/lisette-patterns-round-up.html","url_meta":{"origin":58027,"position":3},"title":"lisette patterns round-up","author":"Liesl Gibson","date":"June 24, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"You've been busy sewing for yourself from the newest Lisette patterns, and we've collected a few of our favorites to share.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/lisette1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":61568,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2017\/06\/lisette-round-up.html","url_meta":{"origin":58027,"position":4},"title":"lisette round-up","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"June 12, 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"You\u2019ve been busy sewing for yourself from the Lisette patterns, and we\u2019ve collected many of our favorites to share.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/lisetteroundupF.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":53081,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2016\/01\/2015-in-review-new-lisette-patterns.html","url_meta":{"origin":58027,"position":5},"title":"2015 in review: new lisette patterns","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"January 28, 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"There were a whopping eight Lisette for Butterick patterns that came out in 2015! With such a sizable amount do you remember them all?","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/lisetteTITLE.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58027","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7455"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=58027"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58027\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":58040,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58027\/revisions\/58040"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/58028"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=58027"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=58027"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=58027"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}