{"id":54867,"date":"2016-04-27T12:13:40","date_gmt":"2016-04-27T16:13:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/?p=54867"},"modified":"2017-03-06T05:30:00","modified_gmt":"2017-03-06T10:30:00","slug":"exposed-zippers-on-welt-pockets","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2016\/04\/exposed-zippers-on-welt-pockets.html","title":{"rendered":"exposed zippers on welt pockets"},"content":{"rendered":"

Please welcome Deb<\/a> back to the blog. She has stopped by before with her favorite pattern<\/a>, her Flat S visit<\/a>, and she hosted one day of the School Days Jacket sew-along<\/a>. Now she is here to give a book report on the Book Report Dress or how to add exposed zippers on welt pockets. Thanks Deb!<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Oliver<\/a><\/p>\n

The Book Report Dress<\/a> certainly lends itself to some fun modifications, not the least of which can be exposed zippers on welt pockets.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve taken loads of boring but mostly in focus photos along with fairly verbose dialogue to show you how I accomplished exposing my zippers.<\/p>\n

Here we go.<\/p>\n

First of all, I highly recommend trying out this method using scrap fabric first so that the opening for the zipper, (a.k.a. the zipper peep hole) exposes the amount of zipper tape you want to see.<\/p>\n

Instead of using a real zipper in the trial run, use a piece of grosgrain ribbon or a contrasting scrap of fabric with zipper teeth drawn on the same size as the zipper you\u2019re going to use.<\/p>\n

Oh, and as far as my Imperial\/Metric conversions go, please note when I went to school we were taught to use Imperial measurements and then our country went metric so I had to re-learn measurements all over again as an adult. So a 1\/2 inch for me is 1.25 cm but exact conversion is 1.27 cm. The 5 inch zippers I purchase are labelled 12 cm but are really 12.7 cm. Just sayin\u2019.<\/p>\n

The first time I tried exposed zippers on this pattern, I made a ton of errors. The first mistake was constructing the dress front and shirt front as two pieces as per the pattern and not making it one piece. Having a seam in the middle created extra seam allowances, unwanted fraying and bulk. Not good. Especially when using thicker fabric.<\/p>\n

My preference is to lay the traced front pattern pieces (#2 and #5) over top of each other along the seam allowances so you can trace out one complete dress front piece. Oh, and don\u2019t forget to add dots and all other marks from those two pieces.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

Now if you happen to use a fabric-like tracing medium, you can stitch the two together so you\u2019ll get the piece exactly as it should be.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

Next cut the dress fabric, open it up and draw a line using chalk or washable marker where the two pieces would have met and a seam would have been created. Let\u2019s call this the \u201cskirt line.” Clip the side edges of the dress front too beside the \u201cskirt line\u201d as this will combine handy when assembling the front to the back of the dress later on.<\/p>\n

Now you\u2019re ready to measure for the zipper placements.<\/p>\n

Using chalk or another washable marker, mark the dots from the traced piece to the dress front. These will be called the \u201cinside\u201d marks.<\/p>\n

Lay the zippers below those \u201cinside\u201d marks and then move the zippers where you want making them the same on each side. Mark new marks along the \u201cskirt line\u201d noting where the zipper stoppers begin and end. These are the \u201coutside\u201d marks.<\/p>\n

Note the zippers I used are 5\u201d (12 cm). I placed my zipper so that the zipper stopper end was 1\/2\u201d (1.25 cm) away from the \u201cinside\u201d mark and the pull tab end was 1\u201d (2.5 cm) away from the other \u201cinside\u201d mark.<\/p>\n

You can move your zippers closer or a little further apart if you want. The \u201cinside\u201d marks are merely a guide.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

If the zippers you are using have open ends like the longer zipper with silver teeth as per the photo, hand stitch the ends together as I\u2019ve done on my short zippers. Having the tape ends close together makes it easier to line up in the zipper peep hole later on.<\/p>\n

\"zippers\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Now that the zipper placement area is made, cut two pieces of interfacing and iron them on the wrong side of the fabric in the area where the zipper will go along the \u201cskirt line\u201d that\u2019s marked on the other side.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

The next step is cutting the pocket bags. I cut two pieces of fabric roughly 7 1\/4\u201d X 10\u201d (18 X 25 cm). You can have larger or smaller pockets, but let\u2019s work with these measurements for now. In the last step you can do some trimming.<\/p>\n

The zipper placement area from the dress front has to be transferred to the wrong side of the pockets, however, the pocket pieces have to be staggered over the \u201cskirt line\u201d. So here\u2019s what I did to get the markings in the right spot.<\/p>\n

Cut two pocket pieces (sizes noted above) from whatever tracing medium you use.<\/p>\n

Lay out those tracing pieces on the dress front and using the \u201cskirt line\u201d chalk line as a guide lay the top end of the pocket further away from the \u201cskirt line\u201d, say roughly 6\u201d (15 cm) above, and the lower end of the pocket will lay a lesser amount below the \u201cskirt line\u201d.<\/p>\n

Trace the marks from the dress front to the tracing medium.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

With chalk or washable marker, transfer the \u201couter\u201d marks and the \u201cskirt line\u201d from the pocket tracing pieces to the pocket fabric pieces.<\/p>\n

Lay the pocket pieces (right sides together) on the dress front. Use the \u201cskirt line\u201d marks on the dress front and pocket pieces to help align plus, lift the sides of the pockets and take a peek to make sure the \u201couter\u201d marks on the pockets are over the top of the \u201couter\u201d marks on the dress front. Using a pin, stick it through the pocket piece at those marks aiming it at the marks underneath. That will also help.<\/p>\n

Pin the pockets in place so nothing moves.<\/p>\n

On the \u201couter\u201d marks draw four vertical 1\/2\u201d (1.25 cm) lines in washable marker. Next, draw a horizontal line in between those marks. Now draw a line 1\/4\u201d (6 cm) above and below the middle line. You\u2019ll have two long rectangular boxes with a line through the middle. At the end of the middle line, draw a \u201cV\u201d as seen in the photo.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

Go ahead and stitch around the outside of each rectangle box. Note that when you stitch down the 1\/2\u201d (1.25 cm) sides, count the number of stitch and make sure you use the same number of stitches for each of the rectangle boxes.<\/p>\n

I\u2019m using a contrasting thread so you can see the stitching lines better.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

You are now ready to cut open the pocket area. Carefully cut along the middle line and when you get to the \u201cV\u201d, clip carefully up to the corner, but not through the stitches.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

Pull the pocket fabric through the hole, flatten to the wrong side of the dress front and press.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

Lift up the corner of the pocket pieces and stitch the little triangle, or the \u201cV\u201d, as close to the edge of the opening as you can with the pocket side down on the sewing machine.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

Press again to make sure everything is flat and the seams along the zipper peep hole edge are perfectly aligned.<\/p>\n

Now you\u2019re ready to insert the zippers.<\/p>\n

I find it really easy to use a fabric glue stick or sticky washable sewing tape (like Wonder Tape) to hold zippers in place before stitching. I also find it easier to apply the tape, or glue on the wrong side of the pockets opening and not on the zipper tape itself because the fabric opening can be easily manipulated.<\/p>\n

If you don\u2019t have washable tape, then use pins to hold the zipper in place.<\/p>\n

With the dress right side facing you and the zippers in behind, take some time to fiddle and fuss with the zippers so the zipper tape is exposed to your liking.<\/p>\n

The photo below is showing the wrong side of the dress. The left side pocket in the photo shows the zipper stuck in place (face side down) and the right side pocket with the glue tape in place ready for the next zipper.<\/p>\n

Since I find using pins for this task difficult, I only have a photo showing washable tape. However I have read that some people us scotch tape where they would place pins. Perhaps it\u2019s worth a try?<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

The zipper should look something like this now. It\u2019s stuck firmly in place and ready to be stitched around.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

Now you can go ahead and stitch all around your zipper. I use two strands of thread through the sewing needle.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

Last step. Turn the dress over to the wrong side. Pull the top of the pocket down to meet the bottom of the pocket making sure everything is laying flat, trim excess if necessary, press and pin in place. If you want the pocket even smaller, trim away, and when you\u2019re happy with the size stitch around the three sides being careful not to stitch into the dress front.<\/p>\n

\"exposed<\/a><\/p>\n

That\u2019s it! You\u2019re exposed!<\/p>\n

\"Oliver<\/a><\/p>\n

And the pockets are a perfect place to stash your dinosaur and zip it shut so you brother doesn\u2019t get it.<\/p>\n

\"Oliver<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Oliver<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Thanks to Deb we have a nice tutorial on adding exposed zippers on welt pockets. They look fantastic on an Oliver + S Book Report Dress!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7455,"featured_media":54904,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[76,66,140],"class_list":["post-54867","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tutorials","tag-book-report","tag-customized","tag-tutorial"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/weltzipperTITLE.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p5jZS5-egX","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":73001,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2019\/10\/six-zipper-tutorials.html","url_meta":{"origin":54867,"position":0},"title":"six zipper tutorials","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"October 24, 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Today the focus is on zippers. Here are six zipper tutorials from our archives that are filled with lots of helpful information for you.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/zippertutsF.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":40897,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2014\/12\/feature-friday-book-report-dress.html","url_meta":{"origin":54867,"position":1},"title":"feature friday: book report dress","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"December 19, 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Here is an Oliver + S Book Report Dress with invisible zippers instead of button loop closures and a quilted back yoke.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/bookreportdress.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":66807,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2018\/09\/eleven-tutorials-for-pockets.html","url_meta":{"origin":54867,"position":2},"title":"eleven tutorials for pockets","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"September 12, 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Today it\u2019s all about pockets. 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Read on to see how she did it.","rel":"","context":"In "tutorials"","block_context":{"text":"tutorials","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/tutorials"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/shelley-hero.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/54867","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7455"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=54867"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/54867\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":54922,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/54867\/revisions\/54922"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/54904"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=54867"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=54867"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=54867"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}