{"id":495,"date":"2010-04-19T20:04:53","date_gmt":"2010-04-20T00:04:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.oliverands.com\/blog\/?p=495"},"modified":"2016-02-08T11:47:27","modified_gmt":"2016-02-08T16:47:27","slug":"french-seams","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2010\/04\/french-seams.html","title":{"rendered":"french seams"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>French seams give the wrong side of a garment a clean, finished appearance. This is an especially useful finish for very lightweight or sheer fabrics where a zigzagged or serged seam allowance might be visible. But it can also help to stabilize a fabric, like linen, that is prone to fraying or to seam slippage. French seams are usually not appropriate for heavy fabrics because the multiple layers are too bulky.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/frenchseamTITLE.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-53309\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/frenchseamTITLE-580x384.jpg\" alt=\"How to do French seams\" width=\"580\" height=\"384\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-53309\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/frenchseamTITLE-580x384.jpg 580w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/frenchseamTITLE-275x182.jpg 275w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/frenchseamTITLE-768x508.jpg 768w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/frenchseamTITLE.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>French seams are easiest and most appropriate to use along straight edges. They  aren\u2019t generally appropriate for curved seams like an armhole, since curves will cause the fabric to pucker when finished. However, with a  gentle curve like the side underarm portion of the Ice Cream Dress (shown below),  I\u2019ll show you a tip that will help you to stitch a French seam without  puckering.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/8.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-531\" title=\"8\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/8-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/8-300x225.jpg 300w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/8-1024x769.jpg 1024w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/8.jpg 1198w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>A French seam is made by stitching the seam twice\u2014first stitching with the fabric\u2019s wrong sides together, and then stitching a second time with the fabric folded over the seam allowances so the right sides are together. This second row of stitches encases the seam allowances inside the seam. You\u2019ll find full instructions below. Note that these measurements are appropriate for a 1\/2&#8243; seam allowance. You\u2019ll need to adjust the measurements if your pattern calls for seam allowances of a different size.<\/p>\n<p>1. Pin the edges to be sewn, with wrong sides together, and stitch them with a 1\/4&#8243; seam, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam to secure the stitches.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-525\" title=\"2\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/2-300x214.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"214\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/2-300x214.jpg 300w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/2-1024x730.jpg 1024w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/2.jpg 1261w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>2. Press the seam allowances open and trim them to 1\/8&#8243;.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/3.jpg\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/3.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-526\" title=\"3\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/3-300x226.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"226\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/3-300x226.jpg 300w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/3-1024x772.jpg 1024w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/3.jpg 1193w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Then fold the fabric over the seam allowances, so the right sides are facing and the seam allowances are sandwiched between the two layers. Press the fabric at the fold (the first seam) to flatten it and get a nice crease, and then pin the two layers together near the fold.<\/p>\n<p>HINT: If you\u2019re sewing a slightly curved seam, you can prepare the fabric by straightening and stretching the first seam at the curve as you press it. By stretching the seam slightly, it won\u2019t pucker and tug when the seam is finished.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/7.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-530\" title=\"7\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/7-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/7-300x199.jpg 300w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/7-1024x680.jpg 1024w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/7.jpg 1354w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>3. Stitch the pinned seam again, this time 1\/4&#8243; from the folded and   pinned edge. This second seam neatly encases the seam allowances\u2019 raw   edges. Press the seam flat first, and then press them to one side.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-527\" title=\"4\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/4-300x244.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"244\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/4-300x244.jpg 300w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/4-1024x835.jpg 1024w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/4.jpg 1103w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/4.jpg\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/5.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-528\" title=\"5\" src=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/5-300x226.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"226\" srcset=\"\/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/5-300x226.jpg 300w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/5-1024x774.jpg 1024w, \/\/o.osimg.net\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/5.jpg 1190w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Fairly simple to do, right?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>French seams give the wrong side of a garment a clean, finished appearance. This is an especially useful finish for very lightweight or sheer fabrics where a zigzagged or serged seam allowance might be visible. But it can also help &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":53309,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[20706,140],"class_list":["post-495","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tutorials","tag-seams","tag-tutorial"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/frenchseamTITLE.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p5jZS5-7Z","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":895,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2010\/06\/straight-stitch-seam-finishing.html","url_meta":{"origin":495,"position":0},"title":"straight-stitch seam finishing","author":"April Henry","date":"June 15, 2010","format":false,"excerpt":"A finished seam is a technique used to secure the raw edge of the fabric exposed within the seam allowance. Finishing seams provides stability to the seam and overall garment, prevents unraveling, while also making a hand-made garment look professional. There are many options available which can vary depending on\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;tutorials&quot;","block_context":{"text":"tutorials","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/tutorials"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/06\/straightstitchseamTITLE.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":59775,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2017\/02\/six-tutorials-for-seam-finishes.html","url_meta":{"origin":495,"position":1},"title":"six tutorials for seam finishes","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"February 22, 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Today it\u2019s all about seams. Learn how to make seams that are strong and professional looking with these six seam tutorials from our archives.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;general post&quot;","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/seamfinishesF.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":60325,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2017\/03\/how-to-finish-a-shirt-with-faux-flat-felled-seams.html","url_meta":{"origin":495,"position":2},"title":"how to finish a shirt with faux flat-felled seams","author":"Liesl Gibson","date":"March 29, 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Here's a quick tutorial that will show you how to finish your shirts beautifully by using faux flat-felled seams.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;tutorials&quot;","block_context":{"text":"tutorials","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/tutorials"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/fauxflatF.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":906,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2010\/06\/pinking-finished-seams.html","url_meta":{"origin":495,"position":3},"title":"pinking finished seams","author":"April Henry","date":"June 17, 2010","format":false,"excerpt":"Here's how to finish your seams using pinking. It's a quick and easy way to achieve a nice finish.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;tutorials&quot;","block_context":{"text":"tutorials","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/tutorials"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2010\/06\/pinkedseamTITLE.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2119,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2011\/01\/flat-felled-seams.html","url_meta":{"origin":495,"position":4},"title":"flat-felled seams","author":"Todd Gibson","date":"January 20, 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"Have you ever wondered how to make the perfect flat-felled seam? Here's how you can do it.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;tutorials&quot;","block_context":{"text":"tutorials","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/tutorials"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/flatfelledseamsTITLE.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":43933,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2015\/03\/girls-in-white-dresses.html","url_meta":{"origin":495,"position":5},"title":"girls in white dresses","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"March 24, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Melanie from Queen of the Flies is here to talk about working in white.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;general post&quot;","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/whitedressesTITLE.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/495","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=495"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/495\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":53311,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/495\/revisions\/53311"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/53309"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=495"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=495"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=495"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}