{"id":3892,"date":"2012-04-25T09:58:04","date_gmt":"2012-04-25T13:58:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/oliverands.com\/blog\/?p=3892"},"modified":"2018-11-28T13:47:55","modified_gmt":"2018-11-28T18:47:55","slug":"customizing-with-oliver-s-after-school-shirt-with-piping","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2012\/04\/customizing-with-oliver-s-after-school-shirt-with-piping.html","title":{"rendered":"customizing with oliver + s: after-school shirt with piping"},"content":{"rendered":"

When I first saw Vivian’s After-School Shirt<\/a> pop up in our Flickr group, I knew she would be the perfect person to do a tutorial on piping. And sure enough, she jumped right into the project and did a bang-up job with it, making a second version of the shirt for her younger son in the process.<\/p>\n

\"How<\/a><\/p>\n

I love her fabric choices, too. The brown and robin’s egg blue gingham paired with matching blue for the piping really make this shirt great for boys, don’t they? And you may also have noticed this version<\/a> of the shirt, which she also made and I adore. So let me introduce Vivian<\/a> and let her get started with her tutorial. Thanks so much for this great piece, Vivian!<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

HOW TO ADD PIPING TO THE AFTER-SCHOOL SHIRT<\/strong><\/p>\n

The lines of the After-School Shirt are so gorgeous that I didn’t want them to be lost in the pattern of my fabric. \u00a0I added piping all around the neck opening as well as the yoke seam to highlight the design, and the results were well worth the effort. \u00a0I\u2019m not a professional seamstress by any means, so give it a try because it’s easier than you think!<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

PREPARE THE PIECES FOR PIPING<\/strong><\/p>\n

Cut out all your fabric pieces. \u00a0Interface the yoke facing according to the pattern instructions. \u00a0(Please note that I cut the facing pieces out of a solid aqua cotton and so my photos may look slightly different than yours.)<\/p>\n

Assemble the shoulder seams of the front and back pieces of the yoke. \u00a0Do the same for the front and back yoke facings. \u00a0Do NOT sew the yoke to the yoke facings yet.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>yoke shoulders sewn<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>yoke facing shoulders sewn<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

MEASURE FOR THE PIPING<\/strong><\/p>\n

Figure how much piping is needed by measuring along the edges where the piping will be with a tape measure. \u00a0Measure: A) short ends and neckline of right yoke + B) short ends and neckline of left yoke + C) top edge of the front shirt piece + D) top edge of the back shirt piece.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>yoke labeled A B <\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>shirt labeled C D<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

For a size 3T, I measured about 62″ in total. \u00a0Add 10″ to your measurement to make sure you don’t run out of piping, so a size 3T shirt would require approximately 72″ of piping.<\/p>\n

You can purchase pre-made piping from the store or make your own. \u00a0There are numerous helpful on-line tutorials on how to make your own piping (e.g., Prudent Baby’s<\/a> how-to sew piping tutorial)<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>prepared piping<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

TRIM THE PIPING<\/strong><\/p>\n

I made my piping using 1\/4″ wide cording and trimmed the seam allowance to 1\/2″, which is the same as the seam allowance of the After-School Shirt pattern. \u00a0This makes the piping easier to work with, as the cut edge of the piping will line up with the fabric cut edge.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>piping with 1\/2’\u2019 seam and how cut edge would match<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

When you are trimming the seam allowance of the piping, make sure you are measuring from as close to the cording as possible to the piping cut edge. Our final seam will be butted up next to the cording.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> measuring seam allowance of piping<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

If you are using purchased piping, it is perfectly fine if the seam allowance is narrower than 1\/2″. \u00a0The only difference is that the cut edge of the piping will not line up with the cut edge of the fabric.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>purchased piping pinned on fabric<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

PIN THE PIPING IN PLACE<\/strong><\/p>\n

Attach the piping to the right side of the left yoke (not to the yoke facing). Pin the piping onto the yoke with a 1\/2″ seam allowance so the seam line will be right up against the enclosed cording.<\/p>\n

As you approach a corner, stop and make a mark on your piping 1\/2″ from the fabric edge.\u00a0 Cut a diagonal slit into the seam allowance of your piping to that mark so you can bend your piping around the corner.\u00a0 Be careful not to cut the stitches enclosing the cording.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>approaching the corner<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u00a0\"\"<\/a>diagonal cut<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>pinned around the corner<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Shape the piping along the curves as you pin.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> pin piping on curve<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

You may need to clip the piping seam allowance along the curves in order for the piping to lay flat.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> clipped piping on curves <\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

You don’t have to start or finish the piping in any special way. Just trim it even with the cut edge of your fabric as it will later be enclosed in other seams.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> beginning of piping<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

ATTACH THE PIPING<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sew the piping to the yoke by using a zipper foot and sewing with the stitching line ALMOST butted up to the cording. \u00a0I like to leave a little space between this stitching line and the edge of the cording because I don’t want any of these stitches to show accidentally when sewing the yoke to the facing.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>sewing piping on almost butted up<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

There are four corners on the yoke pieces to deal with, so you will be an expert at sewing piping around corners when you’re done! \u00a0I find it difficult to turn a 90 degree corner when sewing on piping, so here is how I make sharp corners. \u00a0Sew your piping along the cording and stop at the corner (should be 1\/2″ from the fabric edge).<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> stopped at corner<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Lift up the presser foot and pivot your fabric clockwise 45 degrees and sew 2-3 stitches to cut across the corner, being careful to keep the cording out of the stitching. \u00a0You may want to hand crank the machine for these 2-3 stitches.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> stitches cutting corner<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Pivot the fabric clockwise 45 degrees again to finish rounding the corner and continue sewing on the piping.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> rounding the corner<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Attach and sew the piping in the same manner to the other yoke piece.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> attached piping yoke<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

ATTACH THE PIPING TO THE FRONT AND BACK SHIRT<\/strong><\/p>\n

In a similar manner to how we attached the piping to the yoke, sew the piping to the top edge of the front shirt piece with a 1\/2\u201d seam allowance. \u00a0This should be easy compared to the corners and curves of the yoke as it is only a straight line of stitching. \u00a0Do the same for the back shirt piece.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> attached piping on front shirt<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

ASSEMBLE THE YOKES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Follow the pattern instructions and pin the yoke facings to the corresponding outer yoke with right sides together. \u00a0Keep the outer yoke pieces with the piping as the top layer and the yoke facings on the bottom, with the piping sandwiched in between.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> top layer pinned with piping<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

TIPS FOR SEWING PIPING<\/strong><\/p>\n

Tip: <\/strong>I like to pin my piping with the pins running vertically and butted against the cording so that they can be a guide for my stitching line. \u00a0Make sure you remove your pins before the machine needle reaches it so that you don’t damage your needle.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> vertical pins on piping<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Tip: <\/strong>Using your zipper foot (or a piping foot if you have one), sew with your stitching butted up as close to your cording as possible without sewing onto the actual cording. \u00a0Your previous stitching from attaching the piping also serves as a guide–you want to sew to the left of that stitching.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> sewing left of previous stitching line<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Tip<\/strong>: Use your finger tips to feel for the bump of the cording as you guide the fabric. \u00a0Go nice and slow, and watch your finger tips!<\/p>\n

As per the pattern instructions, trim the seam allowances to 1\/4″, trim the corners, and clip the curves.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> trimmed and clipped yoke <\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Turn the yoke to the right side and admire a line of clean, even, lovely piping. Employ the seam ripper and re-sew any little “accidents” as needed.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> finished piped yoke turned right side<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

OPTIONAL: EDGESTITCH THE YOKE<\/strong><\/p>\n

If desired, edgestitch the short edges and the neckline of the yoke. \u00a0I did not use my zipper foot and simply used my regular foot on top of the piping.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> regular foot edgestitching<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> finished edgestitching on yoke<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

You now have the left and the right yoke piped and turned right side out.\u00a0 Note that as per pattern instructions, the button holes have been made and the remaining raw edges of the yoke and where the yoke overlaps on the bottom edge are basted together.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> piped and edgestitched yokes<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

ATTACH THE YOKES TO THE SHIRT<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pin and sew the front and back shirt pieces to the front and back yoke pieces respectively. \u00a0Use a zipper foot (or a piping foot) with the stitching line butted against the cording.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>sewing the yoke to the shirt<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

As per the pattern instructions, finish the seam allowances together on the yoke seam. If you find this seam too bulky, do not trim all the seam allowances to 1\/4″, but instead open the layers of seam allowances and trim some of the interior seams to 1\/4″ prior to finishing with your preferred method.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> trim interior seam allowances<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> serged seam allowance<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

EDGESTITCH THE YOKE SEAM<\/strong><\/p>\n

Use your regular foot to edgestitch the yoke seam on the front shirt piece. Do the same for the back shirt piece.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> edgestitching the yoke seam\u00a0 <\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> finished piping<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Continue to follow pattern instructions to complete the shirt. Finally, admire your finished project!<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

finished shirts<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> baby shirt close up<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Happy sewing,<\/p>\n

Vivian<\/p>\n

VIVmade<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When I first saw Vivian’s After-School Shirt pop up in our Flickr group, I knew she would be the perfect person to do a tutorial on piping. And sure enough, she jumped right into the project and did a bang-up …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":53288,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[60,140],"class_list":["post-3892","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tutorials","tag-after-school","tag-tutorial"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2012\/04\/pipingT.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p5jZS5-10M","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":2853,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2011\/08\/introducing-the-after-school-shirt-pants-sewing-pattern.html","url_meta":{"origin":3892,"position":0},"title":"introducing the after-school shirt + pants sewing pattern","author":"Liesl Gibson","date":"August 29, 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"We've done a lot of patterns for dresses over the years, but not a lot of pants for girls. I was thinking specifically of the girls when I designed this style, but some of you have correctly pointed out that it can work for the boys as well. So don't\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/AS-full.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":66516,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2018\/08\/fourteen-tutorials-for-sleeves.html","url_meta":{"origin":3892,"position":1},"title":"fourteen tutorials for sleeves","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"August 13, 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Today the focus is on sleeves. 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Rush Hour Blouse that she added piping details to.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/rushhourpipingF.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":44379,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2015\/04\/inspiration-gingham.html","url_meta":{"origin":3892,"position":3},"title":"inspiration: gingham","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"April 7, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Here is some gingham inspiration to have you sewing in checks with your next Oliver + S sewing project.","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/GinghamTitle.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":79950,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2022\/10\/asmitas-camp-shirt-and-lisboa-pajamas.html","url_meta":{"origin":3892,"position":4},"title":"asmita’s camp shirt and lisboa pajamas","author":"Lyndsey Stanfill","date":"October 5, 2022","format":false,"excerpt":"Asmita has created a stylish linen pajama set using the Camp Shirt and Lisboa shorts. The fabric choice and the extra details make a luxurious pairing!","rel":"","context":"In "general post"","block_context":{"text":"general post","link":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/list\/general"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/oliverands.com\/community\/content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Liesl-Co-Hero-Template-2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":69470,"url":"https:\/\/oliverands.com\/community\/blog\/2019\/04\/breezy-blouse-with-piping-details.html","url_meta":{"origin":3892,"position":5},"title":"breezy blouse with piping details","author":"Rachel Le Grand","date":"April 25, 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Camelia joins us today to share a Liesl + Co. 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