[Violaisabelle]

I don’t have the pattern in front of me, but that sounds right. The only thing I would make sure you do it, measure! Measure the pattern and measure your son. 🙂 I have two boys, though they are similar in height, one carries it in the upper torso and the other, in the legs! 🙂 One needs things lengthened above the waist, the other, below. One son grew lots, but his shirt size took a few years to change, in length. 😉

[Violaisabelle]

In the past few years, there have been more articles written about the health benefits of standing and working and how sitting for long periods of time is actually detrimental to our overall health.

We need to not only consider muscular, but skeletal reasons for altering the height. Muscular alterations are sometimes easily adjusted to; whereas, skeletal alterations may not be. Having our heads down for long periods of time is not healthy. Ideally, having what we are looking at, more at eye level, is far more healthy for our neck and spines.

Looking at our sewing work, as machines are designed today, we are always looking down trying to get a good view of what we are sewing. Imagine having that line of sight, way higher, just think of how that alters your body position. 🙂

I was recently thinking of antique machines that were designed with a much larger space between the base of the machine and the top of it, they were also narrower. You had an easier time of seeing what you were sewing, especially if you put that up higher than desk height. Sewing machines are getting larger, heavier and bulkier…making it so we have to get far more creative in how to place our machines.

If you have the opportunity to at least play with the idea of sewing from a standing position, I highly recommend it. It might take a little getting used to because it’s different, but I bet your body will appreciate it more. 🙂

[Violaisabelle]

That’s correct, Heidi! This is definitely higher than elbow height for me. 🙂

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by Violaisabelle.

[Violaisabelle]

I just wanted to add in here, going with the higher cutting tables, if possible, go with a higher sewing table, to be able to sew, standing up, if possible. Ideally, it would be nice to have the flexibility to have different heights for sewing. I have been after this for many years, but haven’t found the perfect set up. Now that more office tables are being offered up with height adjustability, it’s becoming more affordable. Unfortunately, most of those tables that are less expensive, are less stable for machine vibrations. However, there are ways around this. If you purchase the adjustable legs, to go to the height needed, you can then make your own table.

By having the height adjustable, you can serve several different purposes. Obviously, if you are the only one in the house using the table, you can raise and lower the table to whatever height you need for that time on that day, moving as needed for long periods of sewing time. If you have more than one person, such as small people learning to sew, you can adjust the height for them when they sew and you can still use it for when you sew.

Taking strain off the shoulders and back, while sewing, really is important, especially if you sew lots. 🙂

How high is high enough? That’s the magical question. For sewing, not cutting, you could need a table height much, much higher than you thought. 🙂 I just discovered I need a table more around the 48″ -52″ high. I suspect we will see more changes in sewing height recommendations in the near future. Sewing standing up is really wonderful, if you have never tried it. 🙂 You can always have an adjustable chair to go with your adjustable table, so you can partially sit in a higher position, if need be.

For the record, I have a very small sewing space/room, so I have to be very flexible with my furniture. Anything with locking wheels on it, is my preferred option. 🙂

[Violaisabelle]

This makes me so happy, Mel! 🙂 You have a great man there. 😉 I’m very happy for this ending, well done!!!

[Violaisabelle]

Too bad, I was hoping the opening up the sides, leaving them opened, might give you the needed amount of room. Without seeing how tight this is, I am purely guessing. I’m unsure if this is length and/or width needed, so I am thinking it’s probably both. I would find a way to incorporate lacing, in several places, if need be. If I was starting from scratch, I would automatically add length at the shoulder seams, dropping that upper portion down (effectively lowering the armscye, giving more room through the back), then I would probably add at my side seams…but I know you don’t want to cut into the neckline, so I’m trying to think creatively and getting tripped up because I’m unsure of how the tightness is on him.

I still think opening up your side seams will probably be your best option.

Perhaps you could take a look at a couple of links and get some inspiration on the lacing that I am thinking of. If you go to this Pinterest link, you can see the side lacing I was thinking of, only I was thinking of having a 2″ gap on each side, or more. You can purchase grommet tape that has the holes in it, and you just stitch the tape on, or you can create slits or button holes for your lacing. http://www.pinterest.com/pin/205054589256481228/ .

Next, I would look up Robin Hood vests, here’s a google link for that, scroll through and see the various lacing options: https://www.google.ca/search?q=robin+hood+vest&safe=active&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=k3BOVOa5FMOaigLA1oGoBA&ved=0CEUQ7Ak&biw=1366&bih=677

The other link I would suggest is midevil vests: https://www.google.ca/search?q=medieval+archer+vest&safe=active&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=JnFOVOSsKef-iAKg34CYDg&ved=0CDAQ7Ak&biw=1366&bih=677

Keep in mind, you can add fabric, to those side openings, before adding lacing, effectively giving you lots of room to play with..here is a female vest showing a side panel, you can make that panel as wide or narrow as you need. http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.polyvore.com%2Fcgi%2Fimg-thing%253F.out%253Djpg%2526size%253Dl%2526tid%253D53430279&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.polyvore.com%2Fbodice_archers_leather_corset%2Fthing%3Fid%3D53430279&h=300&w=300&tbnid=GuGk3y65GhOLlM%3A&zoom=1&docid=Jfb9cVn70GJQHM&ei=M3FOVLzaI4P2iQL3xoCwDQ&tbm=isch&ved=0CB8QMygCMAI&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=1383&page=1&start=0&ndsp=23

I’m not sure if you have a Fabricland close or not, but they have often carried ‘lacing tape’/ ‘eyelet tape’, ‘grommet tape’….or also called “twill eyelet, grommet” tape. It could have a few different names. If you have Fabricland close by, and they carry it, it would be the tape made out of ’twill tape’, it’s cheap and easy. I have used this for corset making for muslin fittings. 🙂 Here is an ebay link to show you what it looks like: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Gothic-Corset-Cotton-Twill-Eyelet-Tape-Silver-Grommet-Tape-3-4-White-9-yds-MM-/181170907264 .

Remember, if you add length to the tunic, do that first, before adding to the width. 🙂

Keep it simple, Mel, you have already spent lots of time on this creation…but try to have fun with the alteration. 🙂

Carol

[Violaisabelle]

Mel, I read your blog post last Friday, I was very sad to read what happened with this lovely costume you have made. I think making it into something your husband can wear is a GREAT idea. 🙂 I think I would do two things, if possible. First, I would do as you mentioned (if I am reading you correctly), I would slice through the middle where a sash is going to be tied and add my length in there with the grey fabric. The second thing I would do, if it’s possible, I would open up your side seams, making them somewhat of a ‘vest tunic’, if you think your husband can fit the shoulders, once those side seams are no long attached. Then, you could either put in a lacing closure on the sides, allowing it to be adjusted to his measurements, OR, depending on how it fits him, you might just be able to tie the sash so that it ‘closes’ up the vest/tunic. If you are not going for authenticity, it might work?! 🙂

One other thought, if you do decide to add in fabric at the middle, so it will be under the sash, and you want to get more use out of the costume, I would carefully do this adjustment and stitch basting size stitches. Then, you could rip it back out, sew it up, and have the sash attached and sell it off. 🙂 🙂 🙂 I just know there would be someone who would want that costume!!!!

Whatever alterations you decide, if you can make them simple and with basting size stitches, you could make this a win/win situation. 🙂

I’m truly sorry you had that experience. I’m so thankful most people are not like that. 🙂

You do lovely work!

Carol

[Violaisabelle]

Mel, I’m so glad you posted here! I was thinking of your family, yesterday, and I almost sent you a note. I am thankful to hear your family is well and safe. Indeed it was heart-wrenching to watch that story unfold yesterday, incredibly sad on so many levels. I think that ‘unsettling’ feeling is far more reaching all across Canada right now. I’m grateful to be living in such a wonderful country!

[Violaisabelle]

It might be worth ‘playing’ and seeing if the larger needle works and then, how much of a ‘hole’ it does or does not leave. It’s been years since I have worked with performance fabrics, have you looked up how to seal the seams? Here’s one link you could look at: http://www.questoutfitters.com/tips_and_hints.htm#DO YOU NEED TO SEAL SEAMS? I know some fabrics can be ‘heat sealed’ in various ways. I value hearing what you find out, Sarvi!

Carol

[Violaisabelle]

Happy pink baby sewing to you, Tamara, ENJOY! 🙂

[Violaisabelle]

McStitch, I have only recently taken my first, official millinery class, and loved it! I enjoy hats and wear them all the time. 😉 I’m intrigued with what you are going to do. Are you planning to stitch, in the round, the braid, making a capline, then block it? Or are you going to place your braid on a shape, then pin/glue stitch it to the shape? Since this is for a costume, I might be tempted to make my shape, (probably out of corrugated cardboard and masking tape) then start putting my braid around it, pin/glue…then stitch, a few rows at a time. I suspect you will need to size (stiffen) the straw in order to keep its shape and some wire, too. That will happen after you stitch it up. Sounds like a great project and I’m looking forward to seeing what you produce. Australia has some great millinery shops. Surely they can give you some good tips/advice? If you need any close up pictures ,for inspiration/dissection, just let me know. I have a couple of boater hats. 😉 I live near Canada’s largest, outdoor living museum.

Carol

[Violaisabelle]

Sarvi, what size needle are you using for your topstitching? If you’re not using a topstitching needle, you may want to switch it out so you have the larger size eye in the needle. Here are some links.

This one gives an example of the difference of a topstitching needle vs. regular universal needle: http://www.pinkchalkstudio.com/blog/2008/04/15/why-use-a-topstitching-needle/

This link takes you to the Schmetz Needle site, giving you information on how to choose your needle, based on your thread: http://www.schmetzneedles.com/schmetz-needle-primer/#sthash.D7PNrXAT.dpbs

Here’s a great Thread’s article, on Topstitching http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/26461/tips-for-better-topstitching/page/all .

The fact you get it working perfectly, until you get to the thicker seams tells me, it’s either the ‘machine’ not liking the thicker seams, you need a different type needle or your machine doesn’t like the thread.

If you have been using a universal needle, it might be worth switching it out for a double denim (hemstitch) or double embroidery needle. Test your fabric, in the same manor you will be sewing your seams. In other words, with your scraps, create a bulky seams to practice on. 🙂 You may need to lengthen your stitch and possibly loosen your tension.

I hope you have success, it sounds like a great project.

Carol

[Violaisabelle]

Hi Linda,

I’m so glad you are feeling more positive and ready to tackle fitting, it’s truly rewarding and truthfully, Joi makes it easy. 🙂 The very fact you were able to get a good fitting ‘fit pattern’ muslin, tells me you can do this! I hope you don’t rush yourself and take time to enjoy the process and the accomplishments you make along the way. I have had to watch Joi’s videos, over and over again, just to cement the ‘how to’. I knew from the very first few minutes of watching that first class, she was on to something thing. It made complete sense to me, as I had already been doing some of that on my own, but not nearly to the extent she teaches! I just needed more ‘hand holding’ to implement the process and to stop ‘over thinking’ things, as she states in the videos. 🙂

I would recommend watching the class, first, all the way through, then you can start breaking it down, watching it again and doing as she shows at the same time, if you wish. You’re a little ahead of the game from having used a fit pattern. 😉 The beauty of the Craftsy classes are you can keep watching, when you need/want to, over and over again. 🙂

In answer to your question, only this past year did I allow myself to officially, ‘teach’ sewing related classes. 🙂 After years of saying, “it’s not my season”, I came to realize, I think my season is upon me. I have always ‘shared my knowledge and love of all things sewing related’ with those who enjoyed learning. I have been home educating my children for nearly 25 years with 6 more still to go. I enjoy sewing and creating and I enjoy teaching. I’m a big believer in education and I continue to take classes. 🙂 I believe we should always be learning. 🙂 So much to learn….so little time. 😉

If you have questions about your fitting class, you can ask Joi, directly, and she’s very good about answering questions! I am also available, so feel free to contact me, if you wish.

I’m excited for you, Linda! Don’t get discouraged or be afraid to try things….you CAN do this! 🙂

Excited for your adventure! 🙂

Carol

[Violaisabelle]

I just remembered, there is a ‘Book Tour’ on the blogs going on right now, with regards to Joi’s book. Here is a link to Joi’s page, just scroll down and you will see the list of bloggers and the day they are chatting about her book….they are giving away several copies of her book. http://dressformsdesign.com/word/

Carol

[Violaisabelle]

I am going to state the obvious in this, but want to do it, just in case there is someone who may not know this process. When making a muslin, you will want to use ‘basting’ stitches so it’s easy to rip out and alter for fitting purposes. Also, you will want to do most of your seams, facing out, so that you can quickly rip open, alter and mark. If your seams are facing your body, it’s more time consuming to do the alterations. 🙂 Don’t be tempted to just turn the muslin inside out and make changes, because in many cases, we are not symmetrical. Yes, you can ‘cheat’ and you might get away with it, but it’s good practice to do it right. 🙂

I used to have to make no less than 3 muslins, before making a garment, simply because of dart placements, sleeve fittings, getting the ease I wanted in a garment, etc. However, NOW, I don’t have to do that. I am basically cutting it down to one muslin, by using the method that Joi Mahon teaches. Effectively, I am working out all the math changes, on the tissue pattern (or my traced off version of the pattern), before I even get to my muslin. By using my body measurements, and measuring the pattern, I simply add to or take away, on the tissue pattern. Joi has excellent body measuring charts!!! You measure yourself, in all the vertical points, first, then horizontal, then when you have those charts done up, you simply start measuring your pattern, then compare to your charts and then make adjustments. A FBA/SBA (bust adjustments) has never been so easy. Joi has you measuring your body in quadrants, and in particular the bust quadrant is broken down into several segments….plus, you get bust point to bust point measurements, which is almost never mentioned in FBA/SBA in fitting techniques these days, although I am seeing it more in the past couple of years.

Joi’s method is really very, very good! It does take time to work through a pattern the first few times. However, it gets quicker and easier the more you do it. 🙂 Her book is now out and I do have it and it’s a great resource. If your library is carrying it, check it out and see for yourself how she does things. If your library is not carrying it, perhaps you could request that. At least then it allows you to look at the book before purchasing it. 🙂

Linda, when I recently did my ‘fit pattern’ sample, I was able to see exactly the differences my body shape has, compared to the commercial pattern. It actually cemented for me, what I already knew, but it was for some reason, a more visually encouraging perspective. 🙂 I doubt I will use my ‘fit pattern’ sample, much, but it was a very good exercise. 🙂

Be encouraged at what you have accomplished, Linda, keep moving forward as I just know you will be thrilled once you ‘get there’. 🙂 And, once you ‘get there’, hopefully you will see there are still wonderful things to learn about fitting and samples that you are inspired to keep creating. 🙂

Wishing you great success!

Carol