thejennigirl

@lisam cheat’s solution ?

Ah yes, I see that my “don’t clip it at all” idea wouldn’t work. I was thinking of the curve at the side seam being more like the gentle curve of the men’s shirt, or the kid’s sketchbook. I’ve made a few Classic/recital shirts so you’d think I’d remember!

I wonder what happens if you clip the seam allowance with the opposite angle? I might try…[Read more]

Hi @lisam can you add a photo to help us find a work around?
The one time I made a shirt and french seamed everything, I also squared off the hem as it was a casual All Day Shirt for my husband.
Right at the side seam there’s not much if any curve to the hem, and given it’s only a fairly narrow hem, I’d just try hemming it without any…[Read more]

Thanks for the image @karenbadeerThat helps a lot and has saved me digging out the book to check the pattern.
The image from the instructions just below your fabric demonstrates that the cape itself is made up, from centre front to centre front of the following:
1 front panel, 2 side panels, 1 back panel, another 2 side panels, 1 front panel.
Do…[Read more]

Hi @karenbadeer
Here’s the link to the previous topic that @novicesewistwas referring to: https://oliverands.com/community/forums/topic/red-riding-hood-pattern-size-m-cant-get-hood-to-line-up-right
But…. I don’t think that’s your problem. That post is talking about constructing the hood.
It has been years since I made this pattern, but there…[Read more]

Hi Tatiana,
Finishing the raw edge of the pocket facing is done to prevent the fabric fraying or unraveling at the edge.
You need to do it before you start attaching the pocket facing to the pocket or pants.
There’s a video on how to finish seam allowances here: https://oliverands.com/free-videos/how-to-finish-a-seam/
If that link isn’t clickable…[Read more]

@Bonnie I found the hat was on the small side (or my babies have enormous heads) I would make one and see. You can always pop it away for a few months. They grow so fast.
Good luck.

Hi Bonnie, I’ve only ever made the jacket in stretch fabrics and from memory I’ve just used a straight stitch everywhere. I’d certainly use a single straight stitch at the shoulder dart so they press flat more easily.

Hi Figen, as one without much “up front” my experience with bust measurements is limited, but:
I believe the bust measurements as per the chart will be the B cup.
A nice shirt fit is often all about the shoulders, so I’d suggest choosing your size based on your upper bust measurement and then using the C cup pattern tissue which saves you having…[Read more]

Hi Paige. Because the front placket helps to form the collar it needs to be wide enough that there’s no chance it will roll out or fold on itself.
It certainly works out very nicely if you sew it as instructed, so my suggestion is not to worry and let it happen. Enjoy the sewing

Hi Liz, the breezy blouse is lovely, but it’s very essence is its sleeveless was, no?
Adding a sleeve to a sleeveless pattern is tricky. I’d focus on going the other way:
What is it you like about the breezy blouse?
It would be much easier to copy the neckline, the side panel blocking or the hem shape onto another pattern that already had…[Read more]

Hi Violet,
There’s a sew along for this pattern on the blog. Perhaps this will help: https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2016/02/gallery-tunic-dress-sew-along.html

Is it possible you’re trying to attached the wrong side of the armhole facing?

Maybe you could add a picture to help illustrate what’s going wrong

Hi Katie,

The front of the Cappuccino dress is a bit tricky as it’s made up of three pattern pieces.

Do you like the current fit and dress length but want to raise the pockets on the dress?

Or do you want to shorten the whole dress? Then the question becomes where? Through the body or at the hem or both?

Sliding the pockets up the dress…[Read more]

I haven’t sewn the Marais dress (yet) so take the following with a grain of salt, but here’s what I’d do if I wanted to add a sleeve:

Choose the knit pattern that you like the sleeve/armscye of; eg metro T, or the Easton, or the Belgravia dress, etc

Trace both patterns in your size and find the centre front line (it’s the fold line for the metro…[Read more]

I would do both equally. Remember, even a little bit makes a difference, a 1/4″ off inner and outer will make a full 1″ reduction in circumference.
They’re a relatively slim/straight leg fit anyway. Are you sure you want them narrower? Using a trace and Toile interfacing you can “tissue fit” the pattern. Just sew the one leg pattern pieces front…[Read more]

Hi @lillypilly I use Trace and Toile all the time too.
You know what I often find is I accidentally have a piece of tracing upside down, then the grain lines don’t match!
For that reason I always trace the wording on the pattern piece as well

It is very roomy @sewrosey61 as it fastens with a side button.
This lovely pattern is my go to as a teacher gift. My last version was sewn for a AUS size 20.
(My tip, attach the button with elastic so it has some ease)
Alternatively, I think you could make a wee tab that has buttons on each end.

Good luck!

🙂
Sure, but be warned the sewing queue is long! I’ve got three bear suits and a Goldilocks dress to sew for next month’s Melburn-Roobaix