Lyndsey Stanfill
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2 years ago LINK
It is looking good!
2 years ago LINKI was thinking about how to approach that “forward head adjustment” last night and looking at my Fira dress. I think it is easier to see what to do from you muslin rather than the flat pattern. I think of that adjustment taking a tuck across the entire shoulder. Could you try pinning out 5/8″ and trying it on? That may help to show you what the new stitching line would look like. It is tricky. I know when I did the forward shoulder adjustment I had to think through where to start that adjustment.
2 years ago LINKHi Kanataji- It does look wonderful from the front! The back view where you have pulled the dress forward looks great, too! That side view picture is really helpful.
I’m having a little difficulty following your alteration, can you snap and post a pic of the alterations you made?A couple of thoughts…
1. Whenever a garment is riding to the back, my first thought is always a high round back adjustment. I’m not 100% sure I think that is what is happening here, but that is what comes to mind first.
2. I flipped through my Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting, and I ran across Karin’s case study. Karin’s neckline is choking her. I think yours would be too if this was a crew neckline. For Karin, she had a high round back AND a forward head (similar to the forward shoulder but you move both the interior and exterior points-instead of just the exterior shoulder point as you do on a forward shoulder). I think Karin’s posture is similar to yours.
I’ll keep thinking on it, too.
- This reply was modified 2 years ago by Lyndsey Stanfill. Reason: removed reference to pic that didn't upload
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3 years ago LINKYou are doing great!!! Fit is a process. It gets exhausting but it is so worth it.
As for the arms, I have VERY full biceps. I have a really hard time with fitted sleeves, but the other sleeve for this pattern I was able to use with ZERO adjustments. Maybe try it out?
As for the waist, at least the way I fit it, my natural waist hits at the bottom of the waistband/top of the skirt.Look at the close-up of the model wearing the pink dress on the pattern webpage. That should give you an idea of where it will hit.3 years ago LINKI took the easy way out and just sewed the pattern as it was drafted! It turned out great 🙂
3 years ago LINKIn my head I thought, I just need more length and that will give me slouch. That is not really working like I thought it would. 🙂
I’ll try under the bust and see if that makes a difference. It’s hard doing a muslin in a woven for a knit piece!3 years ago LINKGreat! Complete guide for Fitting is just the updated version of FFRP. I don’t think you need to do a body map with a different pattern, you can just do it with this pattern if you want.
I know some people really hate tissue fitting but it can be so helpful. My fit process for this pattern was 1) muslin size 14 (which was too big in the shoulders), 2) tissue fit size 12 with a 2” FBA, 3) muslin of that tissue fit. When I did the second muslin I realized the 2” FBA really wasn’t enough so I did 4) a second tissue fit size 12 with a 2.5” FBA. After I felt good about that, I sewed the 5) third muslin in the picture I posted. I used the same fabric for all the pieces from the second muslin except a new bodice front.
Even if you decide not to tissue fit, you should still do the adjustments in the right order. The order for the things you’ve identified would be FBA (although if you go up to 8D you may not need an additional FBA), waist width, sway back, and forward shoulder last. You can do it!
3 years ago LINKAlso, your photographer is very cute in the background!
3 years ago LINKThese are my thoughts but I’m no expert. 🙂
The 10 definitely looks too big in the shoulders.
Even the 8 is borderline. Technically with a 35″ high bust you should do a size six, but the 8 is probably doable if the 6 seems too extreme.On the cup size. Your full bust is 38 and the finished measurements of the size 8C cup is only 38.5″ which is only 1/2″ ease. If I look at the B cup for a 36.5″ bust, the finished measurement is 38 1/4″ for 3/4″ ease. But if you go up to the 8D, then the finished measurement is 38 3/4″ which gets you back to the “correct” amount of bust ease, so I would recommend an 8 D cup.
Another thing I noticed is the wrinkles under your arm which typically indicates that your armhole is too short, but honestly its hard to tell if those wrinkles are from the strain of the bust or the armhole length. Just something to think about.
Another thing I would investigate, under your bust you have a lot of extra length. You mentioned the extra length in the back but it is also in the front. Compare how your area looks from the bottom of your bust to your waist to the pic I posted of my muslin. What I can’t tell from the picture is: is this because you are short waisted or is it because you need more waist width and so it is artificially pushing up that fabric. Make sense? If you had bunching in the back but not in the front, I would say a swayback adjustment, but I’m just not sure that is what is going on.
For what it’s worth, I had to do a couple of muslins before I got the fit right. Do you have the Palmer Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting? I had it open with me the entire time I was working on my muslin. I’m posting my adjustment fit sheet. All the highlighted areas are the adjustment I did to get the fit right and they are all the same adjustments I typically make on a fitted bodice so there wasn’t anything out of the ordinary on this pattern.
Good luck!
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3 years ago LINK3 years ago LINKThe muslin in the pics is the size 8 C cup? Can you post the other pics too?What are all of your measurements?
In general, if your shoulders fit but the bust is tight, you need more room in the bust (either an FBA or go up in the cup size).
3 years ago LINKThanks Shelley! That is super helpful!
3 years ago LINKAh yes! 47.5 is the hip measurements!
I’ll try grading it.6 years ago LINKThanks! I thought that was right, but wanted to be sure before I made my buttonholes!
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