Oliver + S

Lightning McStitch

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 1,017 total)
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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    I think “over the top” and “as it pleases them” and “with pockets” are really the only rules when it comes to sewing for two year Olds.
    So, by those benchmarks your dress is a winner!

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    It’s possible, sure. But you won’t like it as much 😉
    The back waistband with the two channels of thinner elastic has a much nicer feel with softer gathers and just wears SO much better than with one wide elastic.
    Wider elastic will either be really stiff, or will be prone to folding.

    As I’m typing this, I’m wearing an Everyday Skirt that I purchased, for the price of the fabric, from another sewist.
    How disappointed was I to find she’d used stiff, wide elastic instead of the two channels. No wonder she hadn’t liked it herself!

    Give it a go as per the pattern, I’ll bet you’re glad you did.

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hi Cindy, the seam allowance is there on Page 2 of the Instructions: General Instructions, point 4: “Seam allowances are included in the pattern and are 1/2″ unless otherwise noted”.

    All of the Oliver + S an dLiesl+ Co patterns tend to work with 1/2″ seam allowances, the main exception being knit garments which may have a 1/4″ seam allowance. You’ve remembered correctly that the big commercial patterns tend to be 5/8″ seam allowance.

    Enjoy sewing the cape!

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hmmmm…. I’ve made both the M and the L of the All Day Shirt and found the collar matched the neckline with notches aligning and only a ” regular” amount of easing to fit.
    Is there any chance you did the same as the OP and cut the shirt on the placket line not the front cutting line? Your collar looks fine, so us the shirt too small?

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hi Nancy, the African Wax Prints that I’ve sewn with have been Vlisco which is 100% cotton base. I’ve thought of them as having the weight and thickness of a quilting cotton but the weave and quality of a Liberty lawn! Perfect party Frock fabric.
    I would think that a quilting cotton collar would work fine and I doubt it will matter which fabric you use for the facing.
    Having said that, I’d choose the lighter weight fabric for the facing as it will be easier to shape into the curve that it needs to follow.
    Sounds like a pretty dress, be sure to share it when you’re done!

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Do you have the Jump Rope Dress pattern? That shows the easy way to do a cuff where the sleeve has parallel sides.
    Essentially a cuff is just a really deep single fold hem and then the folded edge is turned up again.
    I would straighten out the sides of the sleeve to make them closer to parallel, then add a deep hem allowance with the slight angle out as the tutorial shows.
    Make the hem allowance just under twice the desired thickness of the turned up bit.
    Then the turned up cuff can cover the stitching line of the hem.
    Does that make sense?

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hi Natalie, sorry for the late reply, I’ve been trying to find a moment to pull out my pattern.
    I have the paper printed pattern and you’re absolutely right, the pocket pattern pieces for both views A&B are 1/8th of an inch longer on one side. (Size doesn’t matter for the pocket pattern pieces)
    I certainly didn’t notice that when I sewed the pattern as a tester and I’m impressed with your cutting and sewing precision that you did.
    Practically, it won’t make a discernible difference, do I can’t imagine it is a design element, but @liesl might like to comment.
    If you’re matching plaid or stripes then I’d use the seam allowances to correct the minor differences and have it look straight as I eyeball it.
    Hope you’ve already enjoyed the rest of the sewing.
    Shelley

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    You certainly could Sandy. You might find you don’t need to adjust it much as I think from memory I can get mine on/off without undoing it. If you mark the centre front pattern piece half an inch or so lower then draw in a new curve meeting back at the same shoulder point. Just remember to lengthen your bias finishing tape as well

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hi @clairemichel , this is a nice,easy one to add length to.
    You’ll see that in view A both the bodice and the skirt have straight sides so you can simply add length at the bottom of each pattern piece.
    I have a long torso’ed daughter and find it’s easier to guesstimate how much extra length she needs and add that. If you try and lengthen to the next size, you’ll notice that the length on the drafted pattern for the bodice is added at both the shoulder height and the waist hem. Bit trickier than just adding an arbitrary cm or two at the hem.
    The way the belt loops are sewn in won’t change. Just extend those straight lines down and make each piece longer. Easy peasy.

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    In step 2 the “cut placket piece” is not the 1″ strip you’ve just removed, but a separate pattern piece that you’ve cut from your fabric. Main, or possibly, a contrast fabric.
    That should set you back on track.
    Enjoy the sewing.

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    @dorilloyd if I’m lining something then odds are it’s a special occasion dress that will need some ironing anyway. So ironing the lining is not a deal breaker. I have made many Fairy Tale dresses with cotton voile/Batiste lining and the bodice can all be ironed as one and just the lining and main skirts ironed separately. It’s not that much extra work.
    To be honest, I hate ironing, and my kids live wearing stretch fabrics, so most of my sewing these days is knits 😉

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    You could definitely do that. Do you have the Gallery Dress pattern? I imagine it working much like that. Cut the back with extra at the centre back fold line, then create a box pleat with a rectangle about 1&1/2″ deep at the neck line.

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Full of trial and error and past failures, 🙂 but your compliment is gratefully received.
    Shelley

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    When a pattern is drafted to be sleeveless, the shoulder will be narrowerer and the armhole more inward, so just attaching a sleeve won’t work so well.

    But, it’s easy. Trace the Birthday party dress in the size you want then lay the bodice tracings over another pattern and redraw the shoulder/armhole area. Now you have the “pattern X” armhole in the Birthday Party bodice and therefore, the “pattern X” sleeve will fit perfectly.

    This will work for those patterns that have a simple shoulder seams. The ones that come to mind which WON’T suit are Sailboat, Book Report etc – those with an unusual shoulder seam.

    Have fun with it.

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Next week four patterns arrive
    I think I’ll be buying all five
    But oops, I bought six

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 1,017 total)

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