Oliver + S

Lightning McStitch

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hi EDB,
    It’s nice to hear you have people looking out for you and time to sew!
    Sleeve heads fitting into armscyes nicely is definitely a pattern designers forte. The sleeve from one pattern will almost certainly not go easily, if at all, into the armscye of another pattern.
    If you’ve made the long sleeved classic shirt and the sleeve fits you well, you’ll do much better altering that sleeve to the length you want.
    Here’s a simple tutorial to show you how to shorten a sleeve: https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2018/03/how-to-turn-a-long-sleeve-shirt-into-short-sleeves.html
    Or you could reshape the sleeve hem, add a cuff etc. All while leaving the sleeve as the Classic Shirt sleeve head.
    The Building Block Dress Book is really good for showing what you can do to a sleeve without affecting how it attaches.
    Have fun playing around to get what you want.
    Best wishes for staying well.
    Shelley

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    The “cut placket piece” referred to in step 2 is not the 1″ strip you’ve just removed from the front of the shirt.
    The cut placket piece is a separate pattern piece.
    Check your cutting layout. You’ll find it. It’s plenty wide enough to follow the instructions as written.

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hi Ann,
    Curly knits can be a right pain.
    One tip I’ve heard, but never yet resorted to trying myself, is spray starch.
    I tend to pin the shoulders, centre back and centre front and then start stretching and pinning all the rest of the way around.
    Use lots and lots of pins.
    If you then find it scary to sew the neckband on with the serger and all those pins threatening to go under the serger blade, then baste it with a zig zag or long stitch on the sewing machine first.
    Good luck. It gets easier with practice.

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    I notice you asked in the Facebook group too and I answered in a little more detail there.
    In short, it depends entirely on whether the dress you’ve designed requires any opening in the centre back skirt.
    If an opening, like a zipper, or button placket extends into the skirt panel then you need that extra seam allowance.
    If not, use the inner line (centre back) and cut your skirt on the fold.

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Here it is: https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2016/08/reversible-bucket-hat-tutorial.html
    The photos help to show how you get the lid set into the crown.
    Good luck.

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Even when you’ve got everything right, seeing hats can be tricky.
    I find it helps to mark, or stitch, along the 1/2″ seam lines and make sure I’m pinning at the seam line, not trying to match up raw edges.
    It also helps to pin the four quarter marks (front, back and each side) and then ease the fabric inbetween to fit.
    You may also need to clip into the seam allowances of the crown in order to make it fit the lid.
    I’ll see if I can find a photo tutorial anywhere….

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Lining up the raw edges flat like that doesn’t represent what happens when you stitch. What you need to look at is the stitching lines.
    With a 1/2″ seam allowance you should overlap those pattern pieces so there’s 1″ of double pattern.
    Does that make the edges meet properly?
    It’s a slightly curved seam, so there’ll be a little bit of angle change at the hem line, but not a step like this.
    Place these pattern pieces right side together and pin along the 2/2″ stitching line and see if you still have an issue.
    Good luck, it’s a lovely blouse!

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    It would be a challenge, sure. But that doesn’t mean it’s not worth a go!
    Options to make it easier for yourself might include cutting the waist/belt section on the bias (windowpane check) or cross grain (stripe)
    That gives you a bit of a visual break between the bodice and the skirt so your pattern matching across those sections doesn’t have to be millimetre perfect.
    Another option is cutting the bodice on the bias.
    I’m a big fan of stripes and figure there’s always a way if you can be bothered. However it’s definitely more work.
    Here’s the Lisette Butterick faux wrap bodice knit dress in a stripe and I love it!….

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    I think “over the top” and “as it pleases them” and “with pockets” are really the only rules when it comes to sewing for two year Olds.
    So, by those benchmarks your dress is a winner!

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    It’s possible, sure. But you won’t like it as much 😉
    The back waistband with the two channels of thinner elastic has a much nicer feel with softer gathers and just wears SO much better than with one wide elastic.
    Wider elastic will either be really stiff, or will be prone to folding.

    As I’m typing this, I’m wearing an Everyday Skirt that I purchased, for the price of the fabric, from another sewist.
    How disappointed was I to find she’d used stiff, wide elastic instead of the two channels. No wonder she hadn’t liked it herself!

    Give it a go as per the pattern, I’ll bet you’re glad you did.

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hi Cindy, the seam allowance is there on Page 2 of the Instructions: General Instructions, point 4: “Seam allowances are included in the pattern and are 1/2″ unless otherwise noted”.

    All of the Oliver + S an dLiesl+ Co patterns tend to work with 1/2″ seam allowances, the main exception being knit garments which may have a 1/4″ seam allowance. You’ve remembered correctly that the big commercial patterns tend to be 5/8″ seam allowance.

    Enjoy sewing the cape!

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hmmmm…. I’ve made both the M and the L of the All Day Shirt and found the collar matched the neckline with notches aligning and only a ” regular” amount of easing to fit.
    Is there any chance you did the same as the OP and cut the shirt on the placket line not the front cutting line? Your collar looks fine, so us the shirt too small?

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hi Nancy, the African Wax Prints that I’ve sewn with have been Vlisco which is 100% cotton base. I’ve thought of them as having the weight and thickness of a quilting cotton but the weave and quality of a Liberty lawn! Perfect party Frock fabric.
    I would think that a quilting cotton collar would work fine and I doubt it will matter which fabric you use for the facing.
    Having said that, I’d choose the lighter weight fabric for the facing as it will be easier to shape into the curve that it needs to follow.
    Sounds like a pretty dress, be sure to share it when you’re done!

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Do you have the Jump Rope Dress pattern? That shows the easy way to do a cuff where the sleeve has parallel sides.
    Essentially a cuff is just a really deep single fold hem and then the folded edge is turned up again.
    I would straighten out the sides of the sleeve to make them closer to parallel, then add a deep hem allowance with the slight angle out as the tutorial shows.
    Make the hem allowance just under twice the desired thickness of the turned up bit.
    Then the turned up cuff can cover the stitching line of the hem.
    Does that make sense?

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    Lightning McStitch @LightningMcStitch

    Hi Natalie, sorry for the late reply, I’ve been trying to find a moment to pull out my pattern.
    I have the paper printed pattern and you’re absolutely right, the pocket pattern pieces for both views A&B are 1/8th of an inch longer on one side. (Size doesn’t matter for the pocket pattern pieces)
    I certainly didn’t notice that when I sewed the pattern as a tester and I’m impressed with your cutting and sewing precision that you did.
    Practically, it won’t make a discernible difference, do I can’t imagine it is a design element, but @liesl might like to comment.
    If you’re matching plaid or stripes then I’d use the seam allowances to correct the minor differences and have it look straight as I eyeball it.
    Hope you’ve already enjoyed the rest of the sewing.
    Shelley

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 1,025 total)

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