Lightning McStitch replied to the topic I’ve just started my first Liesl pattern, the Montauk Trouser in the forum liesl + co: montauk trousers 4 months ago
Finishing the raw edge of the pocket facing is done to prevent the fabric fraying or unraveling at the edge.
You need to do it before you start attaching the pocket facing to the pocket or pants.
There’s a video on how to finish seam allowances here: https://oliverands.com/free-videos/how-to-finish-a-seam/
If that link isn’t clickable…[Read more]
Hi Bonnie, I’ve only ever made the jacket in stretch fabrics and from memory I’ve just used a straight stitch everywhere. I’d certainly use a single straight stitch at the shoulder dart so they press flat more easily.
Hi Figen, as one without much “up front” my experience with bust measurements is limited, but:
I believe the bust measurements as per the chart will be the B cup.
A nice shirt fit is often all about the shoulders, so I’d suggest choosing your size based on your upper bust measurement and then using the C cup pattern tissue which saves you having…[Read more]
Hi Paige. Because the front placket helps to form the collar it needs to be wide enough that there’s no chance it will roll out or fold on itself.
It certainly works out very nicely if you sew it as instructed, so my suggestion is not to worry and let it happen. Enjoy the sewing
Hi Liz, the breezy blouse is lovely, but it’s very essence is its sleeveless was, no?
Adding a sleeve to a sleeveless pattern is tricky. I’d focus on going the other way:
What is it you like about the breezy blouse?
It would be much easier to copy the neckline, the side panel blocking or the hem shape onto another pattern that already had…[Read more]
There’s a sew along for this pattern on the blog. Perhaps this will help: https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2016/02/gallery-tunic-dress-sew-along.html
Is it possible you’re trying to attached the wrong side of the armhole facing?
Maybe you could add a picture to help illustrate what’s going wrong
The front of the Cappuccino dress is a bit tricky as it’s made up of three pattern pieces.
Do you like the current fit and dress length but want to raise the pockets on the dress?
Or do you want to shorten the whole dress? Then the question becomes where? Through the body or at the hem or both?
Sliding the pockets up the dress…[Read more]
I haven’t sewn the Marais dress (yet) so take the following with a grain of salt, but here’s what I’d do if I wanted to add a sleeve:
Choose the knit pattern that you like the sleeve/armscye of; eg metro T, or the Easton, or the Belgravia dress, etc
Trace both patterns in your size and find the centre front line (it’s the fold line for the metro…[Read more]
I would do both equally. Remember, even a little bit makes a difference, a 1/4″ off inner and outer will make a full 1″ reduction in circumference.
They’re a relatively slim/straight leg fit anyway. Are you sure you want them narrower? Using a trace and Toile interfacing you can “tissue fit” the pattern. Just sew the one leg pattern pieces front…[Read more]
Lightning McStitch replied to the topic Pattern pieces for front of jacket – Grainlines not matching. in the forum liesl + co: yanaka jacket 1 year ago
Hi @lillypilly I use Trace and Toile all the time too.
You know what I often find is I accidentally have a piece of tracing upside down, then the grain lines don’t match!
For that reason I always trace the wording on the pattern piece as well
Sure, but be warned the sewing queue is long! I’ve got three bear suits and a Goldilocks dress to sew for next month’s Melburn-Roobaix
I made a laptop case for my son recently as he needed a soft pouch with pockets for mouse and charger and earbuds. The Field Trip Cargo pocket instructions to the rescue to help me create a bellow pocket!
I never cease to be impressed how often the Oliver + S instructions can help out!
For clarity sake, can you say whether you were printing the A4/letter version, or 36″ wide roll, or A0 standard paper sheets.
If someone tries to fit the US 36″ wide (darn you US rebels) to an international standard A0 sheet the scaling could easily end up whacked.
Lightning McStitch replied to the topic School Days: Removeable vest as a standalone light jacket? in the forum oliver + s: school days 1 year ago
I haven’t done it, but I have often wondered about just this.
The only thing you’d need to consider is whether you want it to close when worn on its own.
I’m not sure, from memory, if the front edges of the vest actually meet at centre front. If not, you might need to add some to the centre front and then maybe add a zipper and zip guard?
Hi Catherine, this blog post will probably answer all your questions:
You’re right that you want to choose your size according to your upper bust/shoulder size then use the cup sizes feature to account for your bust
(As a square shouldered B-cupper I speak only…[Read more]
Hi Nicole. Is it your intention not to line the jacket?
If you’re using your quilted fabric on its own AND want the jacket to be reversible then yes, it would be super neat to unpick some of the quilting and make a two internal facing darts.
Otherwise I’d just make the dart as directed, press it towards the back and even stitch it down with an…[Read more]
I remember that happening to a dress (or two) of mine. Perhaps it was the Croquet dress?…. And I recall a thread on this forum about how to prevent it.
I’ve since tended to use a little square of lightweight fusible interfacing on both the main fabric and the facing when I do one of those keyhole slit openings.
A nice, decorative…[Read more]
Lightning McStitch replied to the topic beginner sewer im stumped on first step simplicity pattern , embarassing LOL in the forum off topic 1 year ago
Hi Bonnie (@bonlou)
This is not really the place to ask as it’s not a pattern from this company.
A quick internet search for your pattern came up with a YouTube video tutorial. I suggest you try that.
I can’t see the centre back fold marking on your lining piece, so it’s hard to see if that’s been cut too short.
But…. Main point is that raw edges don’t line up, stitching lines do. So, with a half inch seam allowance, those pattern pieces should actually overlap by 1″.
Try that and see how they fit.
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