Oliver + S

Liesl Gibson

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    Liesl Gibson
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    @liesl

    For question 1 it very much depends on your arms. If you have fuller arms you may want to go with a larger size armhole. Otherwise start with the standard size and see how it goes with the muslin.

    Regarding #2, I’m not a big believer in the body map concept because it’s not nearly as simple as the authors of the book try to make it. Each pattern will be different and will include a different amount of ease, etc., so even if you make a base pattern fit perfectly it won’t be directly applicable to most other patterns. In theory it’s a great idea, but I know people who have taken classes for this and it hasn’t worked out nearly as well as it sounds. The Bistro Dress would be a good pattern to use, but use it for fit practice and recognize that the changes you make won’t be universal to all patterns. Does that make sense?

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    I think I’ve made it in knit with the placket and it wasn’t a problem, but it’s been a while. And I know several people have eliminated the placket without problems, too. There have been many versions of this pattern–you could check the Flickr group or the Facebook group and probably find lots of examples.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    That looks like it will be a very nice fabric for this pattern! I would say the underlining is completely your choice based on your fabric. If you’re concerned that the fabric isn’t substantial enough for this pattern I’d say go for it. In general, I tend to skip it and instead allow the fabric to drape. This coat is designed to be somewhat slouchy, so that would be my inclination.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    I agree that the second muslin is just not hitting it. What about altering the pattern piece to lower the neckline so it hits below the bust? That would be relatively easy, I think.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Very thoughtful on you, @gaudetk! I hope they find a good home for all that useful inspiration and information!

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    It’s looking good to me! The bodice is definitely too long in the back, and maybe a little long in the front as well? But I think you’re on the right track.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    You can absolutely do that. Take a look at the Recital Shirt for an example: we offered more of a tuxedo-style band collar for that one, which is basically the collar band with a little point added. I hope that helps!

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Tough call, right? The style lines on both are very similar, you’re right. The only real difference is in the neckline, which has gathering in the Cappuccino as opposed to the flatter panels of the Lisette pattern. I think it has to be your call, really. The important part will be to find the right fabric. I’d look for a rayon or a drapey silk, personally. Let us know what you decide!

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    That sounds like a job for your local repair shop!

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    I haven’t, but I think it would be lovely. Challis has a nice drape.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Hi! Off the top of my head I seem to recall the hem is relatively straight. If it’s a little curved you can always cheat and straighten it out–quite a few of our customers have done similar with other of our style. You might find additional help or ideas on our Facebook group, too: https://www.facebook.com/groups/friendsoflieslandco

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Hi Maria! I had really good luck with Rijs textile in the Netherlands. They have a huge variety of colors and the texture and weight are very nice. Not very friendly, but nice fabrics. https://www.rijstextiles.com/en/

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    When we fitted this style we made a design decision that the waist looked better with negative ease. Patternmaking isn’t simply math–the aesthetics and fit and action of the fabric also come into play–and with knits this pattern simply looked and fitted better with a smaller waistline. Keep in mind, too, that with the waist ties the waist measurement is naturally somewhat imprecise since the waist includes ties. Of course the wonderful thing about sewing is that you can fit the style to suit your personal preferences, so you can blend the waist to a more generous fit if that’s what you prefer.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Hi Anne,

    Thanks for your patience. The numbers on the charts are correct, so let me see if I can explain the difference between the two size ranges for you. Each size range is developed and fitted independently, so the numbers in terms of ease, etc., aren’t directly related. In other words, we developed the misses size and fitted it to how we felt it looked and fitted best. We graded the various sizes from there. Then we did the same for the expanded size range. The pattern pieces are shaped slightly differently for the plus sizes because we felt that gave the best fit and look for that size range. Then we graded the various sizes from there. So mathematically the two are not directly related–they’re developed independently to give you the best look and fit regardless of the other size range. The amount of ease between the sizes is different because we aren’t simply enlarging one size range to get the other size range–we’re developing them separately to give you the best results within each range. As a result, if you’re finding yourself in the fortunate position that you can choose between the two ranges, it’s best to make your selection based on your body type, referencing the blog post that Todd linked to above. I hope that helps to clarify!

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Sure, as it happens I did a tutorial specifically to help with this issue! https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2012/10/fitting-a-muslin.html

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 1,115 total)

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