Oliver + S

Liesl Gibson

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 1,095 total)
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    Liesl Gibson
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    @liesl

    I like Lightning’s thoughts about it! (And I think it’s a size limit regarding posting here. If you make the photo smaller you should be able to post it.)

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    My understanding was that you’re sewing the Woodland Stroll Cape?

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    You can use a lining instead of a facing. That’s perfectly fine. I’m not following exactly what you’re trying to do with two bodice pieces, but it sounds like that’s not important here. Yes, just line it instead of a facing. No problem.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Can’t you just flip it and use the right side? Everything is symmetrical, so just mark the wrong side so you keep it all straight.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Ok, here’s some quick feedback! A couple of things to keep in mind here and with some of the shirts in your closet: this style of shirt is not a fitted blouse. It’s meant to be somewhat loose-fitting with a slightly dropped shoulder. In other words, I think you might be trying to make a fitted blouse with a shirt that’s designed to be more relaxed. And I think that’s where you’re running into trouble with your sleeve caps, etc. A fitted sleeve will have a much higher cap than this style. My measurements are 34-28-38 and I sew a size 8 for myself, so I think you’re correct to sew a size 8 as well. This will give you a more relaxed fit, but if you want to fit the back a bit more you could always add darts like the ones in our Recital Shirt, which are interchangeable with the Classic Shirt. (You can always just pin out a bit to create your own darts if you don’t own the Recital pattern.) Does that help? I’m not addressing more specific fit issues because I think you need to “go bigger” here. I hope that makes sense and doesn’t disappoint too much. Over-fitting is a common mistake when you’re new-ish to sewing, but for this style it works best if it’s left a bit looser. I’ll check back in a day or two to see how that’s sitting with you, ok?

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Nancy, I’m really sorry but I’m not understanding your question(s). Can you re-ask it/them or maybe post a photo of what you’re trying to do?

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    I don’t have the pattern in front of me, but you’ll want to determine how much overlap was left for the buttons. Usually I leave about 1″ (1/2″ on either side), so that would mean you can trim 1/2″ from each side and use the remaining 1/2″ seam allowance. You’ll have to confirm that with the instructions and the pattern markings, however. I’m on vacation mode right now, so this will be short. Try sewing the zipper to the outer fabric, leaving 1/2″ seam allowances at the neck edge. Then fold back the facing seam allowances at CB and sew the neck. Once the neckline is finished, handstitch the folded CB seam allowances to the inside of the zipper. Then you can proceed with the rest of the dress construction. I’m pretty sure that will work, but that’s without looking back to confirm the construction. (It’s been a while since I wrote that one…) Good luck!

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Hello, and a few quick answers to your questions: you can probably use unbleached muslin if you pre-wash it, and I would likely toss it in the dryer to be sure it’s completely shrunk. They press it well before use. My experience with Aurifil is limited but I would suggest an all-purpose thread for apparel stitching. It’s best when the thread has some poly for strength. And I’m not sure what sort of leather closures, but again all-purpose thread or even denim thread if you want a heavier topstitching. If the holes are pre-drilled you might want to hand-stitch to line up your stitching to the holes? Have fun!

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    The yoke is double fabric, so maybe you wouldn’t need one? Or what about making a slip dress to wear underneath? You could use the Pinwheel to make a simple slip that could be worn under other things as well. It wouldn’t be difficult to fully line it, but it might make it a bit heavy.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    I’m glad you figured it out as well. And here’s a little more information to help you in the future. Patterns are graded from the center-front or center-back neck, but when I lay out the patterns I often nest them differently than they are graded in order to make the various size lines more visible. If you need to make a change you’ll have to take this into consideration. It’s usually best to trace one size, then lay it back onto the pattern to make your changes. And yes, for a larger neckline you’d be cutting away, not raising the neck. Holler if you’re ever confused and I’ll be happy to take a quick look.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    I’ve got no idea either. The only suggestion I can think is to go back and triple-check everything again. Sorry I can’t be more helpful! It can be difficult to determine what went wrong, I know. Keep up posted, ok?

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    It’s difficult to sew for someone without actually being able to fit a muslin for them. You could always use a larger neckline/collar on a smaller size if needed.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    For corduroy, since it’s so thick and heavy you might want to use larger buttons. You’ll have to use your judgement. You can probably make 1/2″ buttons work–you’ll just have to be sure the buttonholes are small enough to support the buttons and be sure to leave enough of a shank when you sew the buttons that they don’t pull themselves through the buttonhole.

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Paula, I would LOVE to write that book! It’s on my wish list, but to be quite honest it’s very expensive for me to write a book. I don’t make much money from books and it takes a very long time to make a book. If I could somehow make a living and write that book I would do it in a heartbeat. But we lose money on books, so it’s not in the near future–unless I somehow make a bunch of money sometime soon!

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    Liesl Gibson
    Keymaster
    @liesl

    Agreed, or you could go the reverse route and start with the large pattern and use the Fit for Real People book to help you adjust the body of the shirt to a larger size. To me that seems like the easier route, but either way would work.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 1,095 total)

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