Kanatajj
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1 year ago LINKKanatajj @kanatajj
I’m pleased to report that my blue tencel denim Fira dress is good to go!
I did the high round back and forward shoulder adjustments as suggested. I also pivotted the bust dart down by another 5/8″.
I made a muslin which was good except a few drag marks on the back which looked like the waist was too snug. I straightened the waist curve out by 1/4″ on each side for a total of 1″ – my waist is bigger than the size 8 although I thought there was enough waist ease that it wouldn’t matter. Anyhow, that seemed to fix it. The dress is easier to pull on and seems looser around the waist area.
Back to rescuing my original attempt…. I removed the yoke from my blue dress, added a new adjusted yoke, adjusted the darts and waist seam. All good and I am very happy. Photos below. Some wrinkles in the photos, but I don’t see them when I’m looking in the mirror, so perhaps the stress of having photos taken :). Looks like the front needs pressing on the right side also….
Next I cut out a back and white polyester fabric that I have sewn before. A substantial, slightly shiny woven with a lovely drape. It sewed up beautifully. I used French side seams this time to avoid clipping the underarm as the fabric frays quite badly on the vertical. I left out the pockets on this one as I’m not comfortable enough yet with French seams to attempt the pocket seams! Maybe next time as I love the French seam finish on this. Very pleased with this one also. A bit dressier, but very wearable. Photo below.
Now I just need summer to arrive so I can wear these dresses…
Many thanks to Liesl and Lyndsey for all their help! so much appreciated!!!
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2 years ago LINKKanatajj @kanatajjThanks, Lyndsey!
I’ll alter the pattern pieces as P/P suggest and try a real muslin this time!I have one other question…
I assume that the tuck was just to establish the right place for the high round back adjustment? It certainly seemed to fix how the back neck sits.The high round back adjustment adds length to the upper back, which seems to make sense since there is more body to cover in that area. I found this confusing since the tuck which removes length also seemed to fix the neck area and upper back. I’m not very good at these 3D things, so maybe I’m missing something.
Thanks so much for your help and setting me on the right track!
Kanatajj2 years ago LINKKanatajj @kanatajjadding yoke photo
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2 years ago LINKKanatajj @kanatajjI read the section of the Palmer/Pletsch book you suggested. Thank you. It sure looks like it addresses the issue I’m seeing.
I tried pinning a 5/8″ tuck on the back yoke as you suggested. I tried a few locations, but the best is actually the first one I tried.I pinned a 5/8″ tuck folding on a line at the bone at the base of my neck. The line is 1 1/4″ down from the back neck edge of the yoke… photo attached. BTW I actually made a size 8 A/B cup, not a 10 as I originally said.
The dress is snugged up nicely against my back neck and the back is hanging pretty much wrinkle free as it did when I pulled the unaltered dress forward on my shoulders. The side seam is also hanging straight and the front is still fine. a big improvement for 5/8″!!!
The shoulder seam is still forward at the armhole edge, but I think that needs to be addressed separately if I understood the P/P description correctly.
I didn’t manage to get a back view photo yet. – Im not having much luck with my mirror technique for back views!
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2 years ago LINKKanatajj @kanatajjYes, I’ll try that! Thanks for thinking it about it.
2 years ago LINKKanatajj @kanatajjThanks, Lyndsey,for your thoughtful response.
I have the Palmer/Pletsch book also, so I’ll read that part. I think that may be the alteration I was trying to do – move the interior and exterior shoulder points forward. I ran into trouble because the shoulder seam incorporates the raised neckline. I couldn’t figure out how to add/subtract the extra length from the neck edge because the seam length changes when length is added/removed and then I got confused… I understand how to do the shoulder edge adjustment.
I agree that’s what the side view looks like. Funny I haven’t noticed it on other garments? Perhaps too much sewing on forgiving knits?
2 years ago LINKKanatajj @kanatajjThanks, Liesl.
Just to clarify. There is no back seam in the yoke, so I assume you mean to make a cut down the centre back of the yoke?
Jean2 years ago LINKKanatajj @kanatajjThanks for the response, Liesl. Yes, I’m definitely confused. Sorry I got sidetracked last week, but got some photos organized today.
I’m uploading front, back and side views as well as a photo of the back pulled forward on my shoulders to where I think the shoulder seam should be sitting.
I know the dart position is not right; I didn’t lower them quite enough initially and had rotated one to a better height when I saw the back wrinkles. I thought I would worry about the darts later!
Thanks so much for any help you can give!
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