dianelyons

Hello! The first photo doesn’t look puckered at all! The second photo is difficult to tell. The puckers may be because of the drapey fabric and they may steam out or soften with wear. And the addition of the sleeves might also help to add a bit of weight to balance out the draping. It could be that you stretched a bit too much, but it may not be…[Read more]

I just finished another pair in linen and I’m really happy with the result. One piece of advice I’d offer for linen trousers is that you press the rise seam allowances to one side and edgestitch the rise seam to strengthen it and to prevent “grinning” when the weave opens up because of stress on the seam. Does that makes sense? I can post a photo…[Read more]

The Swingset Skirt has been really popular because it’s quite full and can also be reversible… That might be a good place to start?

Hi Brenda, can you be more specific? I’m not sure what you mean by View A? Which sleeve are you making?

I wrote a whole blog post to explain. I hope this helps!

finding your correct pattern size

I wrote a blog post about this which should help to clarify:

how to raise or lower a dart

As I responded on Instagram, you just need to find the template for the placket, which is separate from the pattern piece itself and is located right next to it on the pattern sheet.

Erica, thanks for your reply! And indeed, since this style doesn’t have shoulders I wouldn’t worry about that. Look at the bust measurement. If you need to do a full bust adjustment for the shelf bra you could also add room through the front (maybe just move the fold line out a bit from the fold to keep things easy), and the shelf bra will keep it…[Read more]

Hmm, I’m looking at your photos and you’re right; something is pulling the dress back. I’m wondering if it could be the neck neck? Because it’s designed to be quite high I wonder if it’s being forced lower and that’s causing the entire dress to pull back. Let me think about this a little more and if I have any other ideas I’ll tell you. I’ll also…[Read more]

Dawn, all seam allowances are 1/2″ on that pattern.

Hi Kanataji, you sound confused! It’s difficult to make suggestions without seeing how the muslin is fitting on you. Is there any way you can post photos?

Hi Wonderly, is this where you are?

4. Keeping the edges of the outer yoke folded, align and pin it to the yoke lining (the unfolded yoke) with right sides together. Stitch the neckline and the sleeve edges with a 1/2″ seam, backstitching or lockstitching at both ends.

5. Trim the stitched seam allowances to 1/4″. Turn the yoke right-side out…[Read more]

Hi there, I’m both the designer and the model in the photos. The two tops are the same size but made from different fabrics. The blue is cotton with spandex and the yellow is rayon with spandex, which drapes more and looks more clingy. In both tops the shoulder actually fits at the shoulder, but I think for the blue top I just didn’t adjust it…[Read more]

I’m in total agreement. Sleeveless styles usually don’t extent out to the shoulder to accomodate a sleeve, so it’s much easier to copy the armhole of a garment with sleeves if you want to add them. Thanks, @lightningmcstitch!

Very well done! It looks great on you. Such pretty fabric!

You need to choose a paper or digital pattern from the start. All our digital patterns have a title that begins with the word “digital”. If a pattern title does not begin with the word “digital” it is the paper version.

The digital Fira Dress is found here:

https://oliverands.com/shop/digital-fira-dress-top-sewing-pattern.html

I would imagine it has to do with stretching the cuff, but it should return to the correct shape with a little steam and some coaxing!

Sure, I would imagine you could use the Classic Shirt or any of our other shirt/blouse patterns with a cuff and with a few adjustments you could have a more traditional cuff if you prefer.

I would suggest taking her measurements and comparing them to our size chart–that’s always the best bet! You can even use our handy free measurement chart to help you!

https://oliverands.com/free-patterns/measurement-chart/

Oh, I see what you are saying now.

Yes, the center lines should match up on all pieces. The grain lines are just for indication of how to place the pattern piece on your fabric. They don’t need to match up exactly between pieces. As long as they are pointing in the same direction on both pieces (which they do) you’ll be fine.