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Under collar is fighting with upper collar

I am enjoying sewing this pattern, but have come to a stumbling block when attaching the collar to the blouse.


Basically, the upper collar piece is getting pulled too much to cover the seam, and causing the under collar to curve the wrong way.


From what I've been able to google (images) there have been umpteen successful iterations of this blouse...where did I go wrong? The pattern pieces themselves are the same size, which does not allow for "turn of cloth." Did people automatically trim 1/16" off the under collar piece?


Thanks for any advice or suggestions!


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