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RTW sizing compared to Oliver and S

I was thinking about how I buy RTW (ready to wear) sized clothing for kids compared to the sizes I sew for them, specifically in Olived and S. I realised that if I buy RTW then I usually choose by how LONG something is, often disregarding the fit at the shoulders or waist. The length of pant legs, sleeves and the body of the shirt are what determines RTW "fit". Pants mid calf and midi length shirts are not considered "fits well" ( unless you're going for that look ;) despite how well the item may fit around the waist or shoulders.

Although length is important in home sewn clothes it's not the first thing I consider, in fact other than the fabric it's one of the last things I consider. I begin by looking at the chest (tops) and waist or hips (bottoms) and I begin with the size of the pattern that fit those areas then I examine the length and generally add some. For example I buy a 4 year old size 6 RTW but I start with a size 3t when I sew for her ( and add lots of length) or I would by size 8 RTW for another boy who is 9 but I am still sewing him size 6 pants (again with extra length).

I think this may be why when you move from RTW to home sewn it can be a significant shock to find that you may be sewing 1-2 sizes (or more like the 4 year old above) smaller than you are used to seeing your child in. Not all children will need smaller sizes, some will wear the same size and others larger sizing, but I imagine it's a big shock to find you size 6 RTW is a size 3t in Oliver and S!

I was prompted to think about this by 2fillies and Amyfin who were asking about sizing for the rollerskate dress when the measured size differed dramatically from age and/or RTW sizing.

Anyone else got any thoughts?

P.S. Sorry about essay!


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