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Newbie question regarding ruffles

So here are the popover PJs two ways. https://www.flickr.com/photos/125267367@N07/14634654916/


Both girls love them, and the younger one would wear hers 24/7 if she could.


I tried to put a ruffle on the nightgown. It went, shall we say, poorly? The miserable gathering thread kept breaking on one side. So I ask for your help: when sewing the gathering threads, does the tension on the machine need to be loose or tight? How much in either direction?


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