Last night I gathered the sleeves between the notches. I matched the notch at the top of the sleeve with the notch on the top of the jacket shoulder, I matched the underarm seam of the sleeve and the underarm seam of the jacket. I matched the side notches with the seams from the the piece that goes up and over the shoulder of the jacket. I ended up using the gathering stiches only for one side of the sleeve. The other side just barely fit smoothly without gathering. I had to actually stretch the jacket side to make it fit. When I finished I have some puckering on the jacket side rather than the sleeve side for that area. I am using a walking foot on corduroy and I am using 1/2" seams. I will take them out, but I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice.