I always have the same trouble when finishing collars. I do fine making the collar and sewing it on. When I blind stitch the upper collar to the neck line of the shirt, I always end up with 3 issues at the collar edges:
1.The upper collar does not want to cover the stitching line - it seems too short. Should I be sewing the collar so that the upper collar is a bit longer than the under collar?
2.The seam allowances have been trimmed after stitching the collar to the shirt. I can hardly get the raw edges hidden under the upper collar because there is so little to work with. Should I not trim the seam all the way to the edge?
3. I've never really known how to finish a hand stitched seam. I know what to do for quilting, but how am I supposed to knot off the thread when I finish blind stitching? I usually end up doing something rather ugly that works and never feel sure about what I'm doing.
This really bothers me every time I do a collar and I'd really like to be able to do them well. Help??