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Full Bust Adjustment

Morning ladies, hoping for your help again! Been really good, I've learnt to make a toile and made one, bought a cardboard dress form in a junk shop for £10 and have padded it all over to (nearly) fit me. It's a work in progress and I honestly didn't know I was such a bad shape. That's the problem isn't it, to be able to get your garments to fit, you can't lie to yourself about your shape, is so tempting to make my model (Eliza, after Dr Dolittle) a few inches slimmer, a foot taller, with a long neck and blonde hair...

The bottom though is really curvy, I look like Beyonce, though sadly its not the same shape as me at all. My husband popped into my sewing room, and said admiringly, "Nice bum!" I said, "Don't get excited, it's not mine."

Anyway, where was I? Ah yes, FBA. I am confused over a few things.3" difference between high bust and bust therefore half that amount for adjustment, i worked out. But when I pivot the dart up, the armscye doesn't lay flat where the hinge is, I have a bit that wants to sort of crease where the hinge is, also, its obviously impossible to open the vertical seam from the bottom exactly parallel ALL the way up to the dart and side seam horizontal cut, isn't it, because it narrows to go into the dart, if you see what I mean. Then redrawing the dart itself- I redrew it so of course due to my adjustment it is wider, but I couldn't work out where tip would be. I think I made have drawn the cut lines incorrectly because it ended up on top of my nipples (apex????). I finally decided to move it back about an inch each side and when I tried on toile the bust thing had worked! Yeah! And gaping armhole had gone. Too big on shoulders now though and armscye a bit tight, which is why I think I've gone wrong somewhere. To narrow shoulders do you just chop an amount off? As you can see, I need help, even though you may not be able to make me look like Beyonce, though I can always hope. My husband is...(only joking, he always says I'm gorgeous, which is lovely though untrue!)


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